Linksys WRT300N v1.1 JTAG

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DHC_DarkShadow
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 23:09    Post subject: Linksys WRT300N v1.1 JTAG Reply with quote
I am looking for idea's on how to proceed with hooking up JTAG to this micro connector. Please post pic's of how you connected yours.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 23:18    Post subject: Reply with quote
This is the simplest effective method:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=55693

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 23:28    Post subject: Reply with quote
Donny wrote:
This is the simplest effective method:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=55693
Good find and great pics, however i am looking for a permanent solution. Mind you I have not bricked it yet. But I want to test without worry.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 23:59    Post subject: Reply with quote
That is the best solution.. My 1st encounter, I soldered in a pin header, then toasted 3+ sockets trying to get the wires connected (so f$cking small).

My next attempt (different router), I did it the other way, soldered in a socket and tried using the pins on the wires.. That is not good either (so f$cking small.. did I mention that)

Now.. I do it like Donny did it but instead of using cat 5 solid conductors for wires / jumpers, I use solid telephone wire.. Like what is in your walls.. It is a bit heavier gage.. If you need to tighten up the fit, squash the conductor with pliers.. That flattens them out and they fit tighter in the holes.

Pics of the socket, pin setup.. Not recommended..
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:10    Post subject: Reply with quote
I didn't want to even attempt soldering anything into the tiny holes so I just shoved some staples in and use pressure to get contact. Laughing Laughing
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:58    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well, I had a few ideas and it was coming together, but seeing as though I hosed a standard JTAG header on a 350n I think this project is goin on the shelf for a bit.

Are the pinouts the same on this JTAG as other broadcom?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:17    Post subject: Reply with quote
DHC_DarkShadow wrote:
Are the pinouts the same on this JTAG as other broadcom?

Yep.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:36    Post subject: Reply with quote
DHC_DarkShadow wrote:
Well, I had a few ideas and it was coming together, but seeing as though I hosed a standard JTAG header on a 350n I think this project is goin on the shelf for a bit.

Are the pinouts the same on this JTAG as other broadcom?


How did you toast the 350?? cleaning out the factory provided solder from the holes?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:54    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
DHC_DarkShadow wrote:
Well, I had a few ideas and it was coming together, but seeing as though I hosed a standard JTAG header on a 350n I think this project is goin on the shelf for a bit.

Are the pinouts the same on this JTAG as other broadcom?


How did you toast the 350?? cleaning out the factory provided solder from the holes?
Yup, popped a pad and burnt the hole. It still runs, but am without JTAG on it.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 13:12    Post subject: Reply with quote
incase anyone else is watching...

the factory solder is lead free and hi temp and a bitch to remove especially the ground holes.

always ADD solder, regular radio shack rosin core solder, then remove. You may have to do it a few times to get the lower temp solder to mix with the hi temp to be able to suck it up with solder wick or a desoldering bulb.

tip... instead of sucking the solder with the bulb, push it (blow it) out with the bulb. Just need to watch for any "splashes". I'll tape off the pcb around the area I am working on with clear 2" tape.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 13:28    Post subject: Reply with quote
And above all

PATIENCE!


That was my problem... Embarassed

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 13:32    Post subject: Reply with quote
DHC_DarkShadow wrote:
And above all

PATIENCE!


That was my problem... Embarassed


Yea... it took about an hour or more to clean the holes on my 350 when I was playing with the radio card mod.. Then I went back and cleaned out the serial holes.

You can probably fix it.. It might not be pretty but it would be functional. Post a pic.. Lets see how bad it is..

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 13:42    Post subject: Reply with quote
I will have to wait till i get home for the pic.


The copper sleeve has completely come out of pin 3, and I have already tried to patch in down the line abit, the solder point was smaller than the holes on the 300.

I may end up scraping the green off the trace and trying again later.

And it is entirely possible I will send it to you and let you have a go at it.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 14:06    Post subject: Reply with quote
Use a stranded wire.. separate the strands and use one of those strands to go from the trace on the pcb to pin 3 of your header.

Maybe twist two strands together.. A strand from a 18 ~ 22 gage wire is like a strand if hair.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 14:17    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
Use a stranded wire.. separate the strands and use one of those strands to go from the trace on the pcb to pin 3 of your header.

Maybe twist two strands together.. A strand from a 18 ~ 22 gage wire is like a strand if hair.
That's almost to small for me to mess with, I may give it a shot.
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