I used this dd-wrt firmware to flashing my D-Link DAP-3310 H/W Ver.:A1 F/W Ver.:v1.01, after flashing my access point is rebooting and I can't get access to the dap-3310 by the adress 192.168.1.1. Device doesn't respond to the reset button. D-link crash mode don't work. On the device Steady light lan1, lan2, power, and signal level. The device was a brick? Can I restore it to working condition?
hold reset and turn on, the LEDs will be different and you can get into recovery mode in the default ip 192.168.0.50 try again with another version of ddwrt for dap 3310
to me it worked with dap 3310 Ver1.10 and ddwrt build 25697
bye
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2021 19:41 Post subject: Softbrick D-Link DAP-3310
I have the same problem after flashing the latest firmware (V3.0 beta build 44715) to my DAP-3310 ( from factory firmware V2.10).
LAN1, LAN2, power and signal LED are on (constant) and the access point is not reachable via web interface. I tried holding the reset button and then switching on but nothing happens. The 4 LED's go on and stay on.
Is this always a problem after flashing from factory to dd-wrt? My access point is now useless thanks to dd-wrt.
Please your advice!
44715 is not the latest Beta, see the link in my signature for valid places of downloading. I use the ftp site. I am currently running 45454 on my Netgear R7800. _________________ Before asking a question on the forums, update dd-wrt: Where do I download firmware? I suggest reading it all.
QCA Best WiFi Settings
Some dd-wrt wiki pages are up to date, others are not. PM me if you find an old one.
Atheros:
Netgear R7800 x3 - WDS AP / station, gateway, QoS
TP-Link Archer C7 v2 x2 - WDS Station
TP-Link TL-WDR3600 v1 - WDS Station
TP-Link 841nd v8 - NU
D-Link 615 C1/E3/I1 x 7 - 1 WDS station
D-Link 825 B1 - NU
D-Link 862L A1 x2 - WDS Station
Netgear WNDR3700v2 - NU
UBNT loco M2 x2 - airOS
Broadcom
Linksys EA6400 - Gateway, QoS
Asus N66U - AP
Netgear WNDR3700v3 - not used
MediaTek
UBNT EdgeRouter X - switch
Joined: 21 Jan 2017 Posts: 1783 Location: Illinois Moderator
Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2021 16:04 Post subject: Re: Beta
ian5142 wrote:
44715 is not the latest Beta, see the link in my signature for valid places of downloading. I use the ftp site. I am currently running 45454 on my Netgear R7800.
I'm really disappointed in this reply...
It would appear the user has a bricked router and needs help to un-brick it and that's the reply you give?
44715 is the last recommended "stable" build to use for the time being. BS is changing a lot of code as of late and builds, still as of 45478 still has pointer/code bugs that are causing minor hiccups worse than the 44715 build...
There are very few users with this repeater device that can offer any insight. I have no idea how one goes about de-bricking the device. D-link has always been a crap-shoot when it comes to TFTP and being able to force load a firmware back on...and it's only made harder by using a rare device. I've intentionally stayed away from this one because I have no resources to help/point to.
Giving the above advice does not help him fix his issue.
Sorry if I'm being too harsh, but the purpose of these forums, as much as possible, is to provide useful guidance.
The above is true and accurate, but doesn't help the guy fix his repeater. _________________ FORUM RULES
Then open up the router and post pictures of the inside. I should be able to help you find the appropriate pins to connect to. Soldering may be required for a decent connection. Other D-Link routers even required solder bridges across certain pads in order to enable serial writes.
These seem to have been popular in Russia back in 2013...There are some posts about it on the Russian forums here, but my brief look found nothing for troubleshooting/de-brick; but I spent all of 2 min to look when I did; so YMMV if you search for real.
I'm done commenting now...lunch time is over... _________________ FORUM RULES
Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 15:42 Post subject: DAP-3310 bricked
My DAP-3310 is also bricked.
I could not identify the serial pinouts.
There is a connector with four pins, but is labeled as "JP1". Only the 1. and 3. pin is connected. (Its probably a jumper )
Who knows the serial pinouts?
Joined: 21 Jan 2017 Posts: 1783 Location: Illinois Moderator
Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 16:20 Post subject:
My Guess is that "JP1" is indeed the serial connection for the AP since the headers are soldered on; but there is a spot for JP2 which could really be the true serial connection. You will need to use a multi meter to find out which of the pins is common ground and then by process of elimination (trying many combinations) which two pins are the TX and RX. Typically, RX has the silkscreen arrow next to it on the PCB (But again use a multimeter to make sure-no DC power hooked up)
Look closely at the PCB traces and you should be able to see which pins have traces going to them. The FCC images are too blurry to provide any advice at this point. It's too hard to tell from the picture what the gnd,tx, and rx pins might be and if JP1 or JP2 is the right set of pins to use.
No matter what, Do not connect the Red 5V VCC to the board or you risk frying the AP and/or your usb port on the laptop.
There is no documentation of this AP on dd-wrt nor on open-wrt to help; and, this AP is a unicorn with the CPU it uses- no other Dlink product uses it so it's impossible to say what the real recovery method will be.
You're going to have to be our alpha tester and document what you find so we can help others. _________________ FORUM RULES
Joined: 21 Jan 2017 Posts: 1783 Location: Illinois Moderator
Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 16:32 Post subject:
Based on TP-Link routers I have soldered headers onto. This is my Guess at what the pins would be...But I can be 100% wrong and you can cause damage so proceed at your own risk! _________________ FORUM RULES
Joined: 08 May 2018 Posts: 14208 Location: Texas, USA
Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 16:32 Post subject:
JP1 is most likely the UART serial connection header. If you look at JP2 and look at the underside, that's not going to anything. Index is the white arrow on the top of the board, and that pin is either Vcc or GND, most likely. _________________ "Life is but a fleeting moment, a vapor that vanishes quickly; All is vanity"
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Joined: 21 Jan 2017 Posts: 1783 Location: Illinois Moderator
Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2021 16:38 Post subject:
Please post a close up of the traces on the back of the board for JP1 and indicate which one has the silkscreen arrow on it... That will help a little bit. But I think my pin diagram will be wrong based on the traces I see in your picture.
I am going to agree with KP69, that the silkscreen arrow pin is likely GND or VCC based on the traces. A multimeter will tell you for sure. The main ground will be around the screw holes that have copper pads around them. This will tell you which pin is groud for sure. _________________ FORUM RULES
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