Thanks for the help guys. I finally got it. Yes it definitely has changed, took me forever to figure it out and I remember doing in a couple of seconds early this year.
You can not flash another -e3000 named file, those are for initial flash when you have Linksys stock firmware on the router and want to convert to dd-wrt.
Flash 16785 or 16994 K26 mini e2k-e3k build, they are compatible with the build you have on the router now and are the last e2k-e3k builds made, the early 14567 build you have on the router now does not recognize -nv60k builds.
You can flash any nv60k build you like after having passed through 16785/16994. _________________ Kernel panic: Aiee, killing interrupt handler!
- start with 14929 big (i.e. mega) build for WRT610N V2;
- hexedit the cfe with my own values (I did it with HxD and I have simply copied/pasted the values from my cfe backup; afterwards I did a content comparison between the the downloaded E3000 cfe and the hexedited cfe and they were identical, except for three locations where I have copied/pasted my own values - if in doubt, it is an important step, just to make sure that the edits were correct);
- FTP the new cfe to the attached hard disk;
- telnet to the router;
- copied the new cfe from the attached hard disk to /tmp;
- flashed the new cfe according to instructions;
- exited telnet;
- flashed the modified transitional firmware, checking reset to default settings;
- wait 10 minutes after flashing was succesfully completed (i.e. since seeing the password change screen);
- 30-30-30;
- flashed build 14929 (e2k-e3k version), checking reset to default settings;
- wait 10 minutes after flashing was completed (i.e. since seeing the password change screen);
- 30-30-30;
- configuring and start using it.
I flashed another one and this sequence worked for me:
- started with older stock firmware;
- flashed newest stock firmware;
- after I got the GUI of the new firmware I waited 10 minutes and then did a 30/30/30;
- waited for 3 minutes and then flashed the WRT610N v2 mini build according to the wiki;
- after I got the GUI of the new firmware I waited for 10 minutes and then powered off for ten seconds, then allowed it to boot and then did a 30/30/30;
- hexedited the cfe with my own values (I did it with HxD and I have simply typed the values printed on the label; afterwards I did a content comparison between the the downloaded E3000 cfe and the hexedited cfe and they were identical, except for three locations where I have typed my own values - if in doubt, it is an important step, just to make sure that the edits were correct); this took about 10 minutes;
- used WinSCP (in SCP mode) to upload cfe_new.bin to /tmp of the router;
- telnet to the router;
- flashed the new cfe according to instructions;
- exited telnet;
- flashed the modified transitional firmware, having selected reset to default settings;
- after flashing was succesfully completed (i.e. since seeing the password change screen) I waited 10 minutes and then powered off for ten seconds;
- allowed it to boot and did a 30-30-30;
- waited 3 minutes and then flashed build 14929 (e2k-e3k version), having selected reset to default settings;
- after flashing was completed (i.e. since seeing the password change screen) I waited 10 minutes and then powered it off for 10 seconds;
- allowed it to boot and then did a 30-30-30;
- configured and started using it. _________________ 2 times APU2 Opnsense 21.1 with Sensei
2 times RT-AC56U running DD-WRT 45493 (one as Gateway, the other as AP, both bridged with LAN cable)
3 times Asus RT-N16 shelved
E4200 V1 running freshtomato 2020.8 (bridged with LAN cable)
3 times Linksys WRT610N V2 converted to E3000 and 1 original E3000 running freshtomato 2020.8 (bridged with LAN cable)
Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 15:20 Post subject: EU Version
Wondering if this also can be done with A EU WRT 610N V2, See the differences @ Screenshot.
Any ideas our do i need a other e3000_cfe_V21 for EU ?
I think this are the 3 spots which slobodan got aswell the difference ? as i can see he is from Europe i think he got a EU device as-well,
I was also puzzled by that EU/US difference, but I have successfully converted two WRT610N-EU (V2) to E3000. I have simply flashed the US bootloader. I don't know if this makes any difference, perhaps it tells the stock firmware what for router is that. I would not modify the US mark of the bootloader since I fear that the bootloader could become broken and I would brick my router. _________________ 2 times APU2 Opnsense 21.1 with Sensei
2 times RT-AC56U running DD-WRT 45493 (one as Gateway, the other as AP, both bridged with LAN cable)
3 times Asus RT-N16 shelved
E4200 V1 running freshtomato 2020.8 (bridged with LAN cable)
3 times Linksys WRT610N V2 converted to E3000 and 1 original E3000 running freshtomato 2020.8 (bridged with LAN cable)
I was also puzzled by that EU/US difference, but I have successfully converted two WRT610N-EU (V2) to E3000. I have simply flashed the US bootloader. I don't know if this makes any difference, perhaps it tells the stock firmware what for router is that. I would not modify the US mark of the bootloader since I fear that the bootloader could become broken and I would brick my router.
Alright i did the same, it's succesfull converted now.
By following your steps,
This is how to turn your 610N_V2 into an E3000. This will only work on a WRT610N_V2.
As with all procedures of this nature, there is a risk. I take no responsibility for what may happen to your router. It is all on you. If you are not comfortable or there is something you don't understand, do not proceed. You have been warned!
If you have a wrt610n_v2 and you do not know what a static ip is, or what a hex editor is, close this thread and continue browsing the forum.
User FrancoisC shares in the credit for this procedure.
Make sure your anti-virus and firewall software is disabled. Setting a static IP on your rig is recommended.
There is no operational jtag on a V2 or a 3000. If you brick your router, it may not be recoverable.
EDIT: This has changed. Jtag can be enabled if you are able and tjtag now supports this router.
If you do not follow the instructions exactly you may need serial to recover assuming your cfe flash was good. If you mess up the cfe flash, your router is now a 100+ dollar paper weight!
You will need a hex editor program. notepad is not a hex editor!, winSCP, and you must have SSH enabled in the dd-wrt firmware. Which means you must have dd-wrt already installed. winSCP uses SSH for file transfer. You will also need an E3000 cfe , and an E3000 build with a modified header. Both are attached below. The CFE you will have to edit. The modified build is ready to go. Both are attached.
This is what needs to be done:
Backup your existing cfe via http and put it in a safe place.
Edit the attached 3000 cfe with your macs, serial, and the 8 digit easy access pin. All found on your sticker. The CFE is a binary file so you must use a hex editor!
The mac address is found at offset 0x1E00 in the cfe file. The easy access pin is at offset 0x3FCDC. The serial number is found at offset 0x3FE30. Complete the edits and rename the cfe file to cfe_new.bin.
During the process, DO NOT power cycle your router. NEVER power cycle the router until all finished with the final flash and the router has booted.
Reset your router to defaults and enable SSH.
Once your CFE edits are done, use winSCP to copy the cfe file to the /tmp folder of the router.
Close winSCP and open a telnet session.
Issue the following commands:
cd /tmp
mtd unlock cfe
mtd write -f cfe_new.bin cfe
It only takes a few seconds to write the new cfe. When back at the telnet prompt, exit the session.
Now access the router via your browser.
Using the admin, upgrade tab, flash the attached build selecting to "reset to defaults" after the flash.
If you do not reset to defaults, your router will brick and you will need serial to recover!
Be patient.. This will take a while and the router may reboot three times. BE PATIENT! It can take up to 6 minutes or longer. I believe dd-wrt starts counting down from 360 when flashing. It took till the number 74 was displayed before I got a success message.. and it took a few more minutes after that for the router to boot for the final time. BE PATIENT!
Once booted, access the router, reset to factory defaults once more, then flash a 3000 build without the modified header.
DO NOT POWER CYCLE THE ROUTER AT ANY TIME
Note: This is the original thread with comments, assessments and a few foul ups. It is 15 pages long. The newest cfe is attached below in THIS thread:
I was wondering where the jtag info for this router can be found, I have been looking as i have been given two wrt610n v2 that are dead with flashing power led and serial console cannot connect to them.
From what I gather I need to bridge the five connections as shown in the picture and add 4.7k ohm resistors in series with an existing jtag cable.
If this is correct all I need to know is where are the jtag connections and what is the pin out.
