The symptoms I had using DMZ+.
1. Youtube disconnect
2. Web disconnect
3. File download disconnect
4. Live messenger disconnect
Thank you so much!
So you have the same router as I do and it's working. Really puzzled why it doesn't work for me.
Is 18774 referring to DD-WRT build number?
Where did you find that build? (yeah, I'm new to the DD-WRT community ) I just look at the E4200 wiki-page below to check for any potential new suggested build:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_E4200
Did you btw ever run build 18000 and happened to test it there?
I just want a super-stable router and couldn't care less about extra functionality. Is it advised to install the very latest (in the case of Linksys E4200)?
I flashed my E2400 with build 18777 using the following file:
dd-wrt.v24-18777_NEWD-2_K2.6_big-nv60k.bin
I did some basic configuration and saved the following line to the firewall:
iptables -I INPUT -p udp --sport 67 --dport 68 -j ACCEPT
When looking at Status->WAN the "Remaining Lease Time" counter goes down to 0 and the "Connection Uptime" resets to 0, i.e. I lost the connection.
Does anyone have any idea at all what might be going on? Is there anything I can be doing wrong or missing?
For reference, below are the exact steps I take to configure the router:
Setup -> Basic Setup
- Set Host Name to DD-WRT.
- Set router IP to 192.168.10.1, mainly so it shouldn't collide with the default 192.168.1.1 setting of the 2wire.
- Set DHCP address to start at 192.168.10.100.
- Configure Time Settings. Set Time Zone to UTC-6 and NTP server to time-a.nist.gov.
Wireless -> Basic Settings
- Set Wireless Network mode to disabled for both.
Services -> Services
- Assign a few Static Leases.
192.168.10.160, 192.168.10.161, 192.168.10.162
NAT/QoS -> DMZ
- Enable DMZ for my main computer/server (192.168.10.160).
Solved ... Well, sort of... I disabled DMZ and it started working, i.e. the disconnects stopped and on Status->WAN I see that the "Remaining Lease Time" always stays above 5min. I will do more testing and see what, if any, of all the issues that I previously experienced that remain.
So, that is great, but I really like to have my main computer/server outside the firewall. It can be such a hassle if you're away and you need to reach it (via remote desktop, ftp etc) and notice you've forgot to open up something.
Anyone having any idea why the command doesn't work when DMZ is enabled?
For remote access to your devices, configure openVPN.
Thanks, I'm however happy with using Windows Remote Desktop, and it works great by just doing a port forward on the specific TCP-port (one for each computer I want to be able to reach).
Looking into openVPN would probably be nice to just learn about it though.
Joined: 16 Mar 2011 Posts: 111 Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 21:09 Post subject:
If you need to use a DMZ, you need to port forward udp port 68 to the router's local IP so it doesn't get sent to the DMZ.
Otherwise DHCP renewal requests get sent to the DMZ instead of the router, and your DHCP lease will expire and have to get a new one, thus causing the disconnect.
If you need to use a DMZ, you need to port forward udp port 68 to the router's local IP so it doesn't get sent to the DMZ.
Otherwise DHCP renewal requests get sent to the DMZ instead of the router, and your DHCP lease will expire and have to get a new one, thus causing the disconnect.
Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:26 Post subject: ATT UVerse + DD-WRT: Connection issues
I recently started using ATT Uverse with the DD-WRT firmware on a Asus N16 router ... Outlook would not send email after a minute or so. Remote Desktop (RDP) would drop after a minute or so. Very frustrating. Closing Outlook and opening it back up would send the email ... but after a minute, emails would sit in the Outbox. The comment below quoted fixed my issue. DMZ+ mode to the DD-WRT router. Be sure to hit "save firewall" and Reboot after the save. Everything is good now. Cheers and much appreciated.
Anyway, long story short, the dd-wrt router firewall seems to be blocking the DHCP responses from the UVerse router. The DHCP lease is every 10 minutes and the current config would drop the connection at 10 minutes then renew the lease. So, a rule needs to be added to the dd-wrt firewall to renew the lease every 5 minutes before it gets dropped.
In dd-wrt go to Administration - Commands and add this rule:
iptables -I INPUT -p udp --sport 67 --dport 68 -j ACCEPT
Click Save Firewall. You may need to restart the router. To verify that it is working (beyond trying to stream something for a long time or download a very large file) go to Status - WAN and check the 'Remaining Lease Time'. It should not go below 5:00.
Again, I did not come up with this and am basically parroting what is said on the site I listed. So all the credit goes there.
Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 22:48 Post subject: VUDU- UVERSE ATT streaming help!!!
I have a E4200 Modem behind the Uverse 3600HGV 192.168.1.254 and my Linksys is set to 192.168.2.60 using the 192.168.2.xxx) I then have to Linksys WRGT54G 1 v5 and 1 V8 running the latest firmware.
Netflix for the most part works ok but Vudu always buffers and I am getting 11.2 MB DS on all speed tests, 54G should be able to handle SD and HD can anyone show me their configurations on the modems or email a screenshot, I must be missing something on these.
Joined: 08 Nov 2007 Posts: 34 Location: North Metro Atlanta, GA
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 14:48 Post subject: Advice on how to setup my u-verse network? please
What is the best way to setup my network if I am using AT&T U-verse
I have posted questions about what I am currently using but maybe I’m asking the wrong question.
I think the best question is:
What is the BEST way to setup my network and what devices should I use to get the best performance?
I’m located in North Metro Atl. GA area if that matters?
My AT&T U-verse info is as follows:
I am paying for :
U-Verse TV – 300 Pkg * Data: 24mb Max Turbo (up to 24mb down & 3mb up * AT&T VOIP 1 line
The about screens says my profile is set to 32,341 Kbps down and 5,040 Kbps upstream
UV Real-time v1.9.1.0 says my Wan is 4HD | I am in the Ingress 1SD/3H | Egress 0SD/
Modem: 2Wire 3801HGV Router Hardware version 000778-004 running Software version 6.3.7.50-enh.tm
I have 3 HD Receivers one them is the DVR and all 3 are connected via Cat5E plugged into Ports 1,2 & 3 of the 3801HGV
Hardwired Connections via Cat 5E:
2 Desktop PC's connected
1 Xbox
1 Onkyo receiver
1 maybe 2 Oki5200NE Printer
1 Dlink NDS 323 NAS
1 Roku HD receiver
1 Apple TV
1 Ipad3
2 notebook computers
3 Iphone 4's
1 Bluray disk player
We currently use Netflix, Amazon Prime Video, face book etc.
I’ve thought about running Plex Media Server as well.
If I end up with a travel Job again it might be nice to access the network from the road, maybe even get some video from home on the road.
I have been told by a U-Verse tech that the wireless sucks in the 3801hgv and it has an issue running out of DHCP addresses so he advised that I use a wireless router for faster better wireless range and more.
I’m not happy with the data speeds, my son noticed that his cable internet was significantly faster so I’m trying to figure out what I can to improve performance.
In a post I wrote one of the issues I was told I had was U-verse uses IGMP v3 and as I understand it, it would look like a virtual storm i.e. really messing up data throughput.
With that information I called Netgear and they pretty much told me I needed to buy a very expensive Switch and maybe a router as well.
When I called Linksys / Cisco after a few transfers they told me I needed to get a EA4500 Router and a SE2800 Switch, and if I needed any more ports I could get another switch. They also told me how I had 90 days to return it and Cisco would help me configure it. They also told me I could get extended support for about $29. To give me up to a year of support if I was concerned.
Looking at DD-WRT it appears that the most current Linksys / Cisco Router that is supported is the E4200 V1 not the V2 or the EA4500 or the EA6500.
I currently own a Linksys WRT600N V 1.1 running DD-WRt V24-sp2 8/7/10 Mega Build 14896 This is pretty much a Router used only about 1 week but I have had it new in the box for over a year.
I also have the following switches:
Netgear Prosafe 24 port 10/100 Switch Model 23 (JFS524) less than a year old
1 Netgear Prosafe Plus GS108E V1 Firmware V 1.00.09 I’ve been using about a week
1 Netgear Prosafe G108NA upc# 606449025163 new in sealed box
1 Netgear GS608NA UPC# 606449035926 new is sealed box
I had really hoped to have 1 16-24 port smart switch as I thought it would do a better job of managing traffice If i'm right then please let me know what the best one to use would be,
Joined: 24 Feb 2009 Posts: 2026 Location: Sol System > Earth > USA > Arkansas
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 1:17 Post subject: Re: Advice on how to setup my u-verse network? please
raydicks wrote:
What is the best way to setup my network if I am using AT&T U-verse
I have posted questions about what I am currently using but maybe I’m asking the wrong question.
I think the best question is:
What is the BEST way to setup my network and what devices should I use to get the best performance?
I’m located in North Metro Atl. GA area if that matters?
More on the network configuration will be explained below. Your location does not matter (at this time).
raydicks wrote:
My AT&T U-verse info is as follows:
I am paying for :
U-Verse TV – 300 Pkg * Data: 24mb Max Turbo (up to 24mb down & 3mb up * AT&T VOIP 1 line
The about screens says my profile is set to 32,341 Kbps down and 5,040 Kbps upstream
UV Real-time v1.9.1.0 says my Wan is 4HD | I am in the Ingress 1SD/3H | Egress 0SD/
Modem: 2Wire 3801HGV Router Hardware version 000778-004 running Software version 6.3.7.50-enh.tm
I have 3 HD Receivers one them is the DVR and all 3 are connected via Cat5E plugged into Ports 1,2 & 3 of the 3801HGV
Too much information. All services provided by the 2wire DSL/router modem need to be plugged in directly (aka, digital TV receivers and telephone).
raydicks wrote:
Hardwired Connections via Cat 5E:
2 Desktop PC's connected
1 Xbox
1 Onkyo receiver
1 maybe 2 Oki5200NE Printer
1 Dlink NDS 323 NAS
1 Roku HD receiver
1 Apple TV
1 Ipad3
2 notebook computers
3 Iphone 4's
1 Bluray disk player
Mostly irrelevant as all of these devices will be behind the "second" router running your internal network.
raydicks wrote:
We currently use Netflix, Amazon Prime Video, face book etc.
I’ve thought about running Plex Media Server as well.
If I end up with a travel Job again it might be nice to access the network from the road, maybe even get some video from home on the road.
More irrelevant as what you are using should not matter. Remote connections can be set up on the "second" router running your internal network.
raydicks wrote:
I have been told by a U-Verse tech that the wireless sucks in the 3801hgv and it has an issue running out of DHCP addresses so he advised that I use a wireless router for faster better wireless range and more.
I’m not happy with the data speeds, my son noticed that his cable internet was significantly faster so I’m trying to figure out what I can to improve performance.
The tech is either an idiot, or he is too lazy to explain how to configure your device. The amount of IP addresses can be manually changed if necessary on the "Settings" > "LAN" page of your 2wire router. As for wireless, I have that turned off as my own personal router behind the 2wire router is providing all of the wireless signal I need.
raydicks wrote:
In a post I wrote one of the issues I was told I had was U-verse uses IGMP v3 and as I understand it, it would look like a virtual storm i.e. really messing up data throughput.
The protocol is irrelevant here as your 2wire router likely needs to be completely reset to clear the problems.
raydicks wrote:
With that information I called Netgear and they pretty much told me I needed to buy a very expensive Switch and maybe a router as well.
All netgear wants is for you to buy more gear from them.
raydicks wrote:
When I called Linksys / Cisco after a few transfers they told me I needed to get a EA4500 Router and a SE2800 Switch, and if I needed any more ports I could get another switch. They also told me how I had 90 days to return it and Cisco would help me configure it. They also told me I could get extended support for about $29. To give me up to a year of support if I was concerned.
Same issue here. Cisco was more helpful, but they are going to charge you for it.
raydicks wrote:
Looking at DD-WRT it appears that the most current Linksys / Cisco Router that is supported is the E4200 V1 not the V2 or the EA4500 or the EA6500.
If you really want to "upgrade" your router, go with an E3000. I currently use this router and it supplies all of my needs. Likely it would do the same for you. Plus, the wireless is infinitely better than the 2wire router.
raydicks wrote:
I currently own a Linksys WRT600N V 1.1 running DD-WRt V24-sp2 8/7/10 Mega Build 14896 This is pretty much a Router used only about 1 week but I have had it new in the box for over a year.
I had a WRT600n in a similar configuration as my current E3000. While the WRT600n is a valuable router, it does not have JTAG recovery nor is it kernel 2.6 compatible. I stopped using it an switched to an E3000 due to more work being performed on the 2.6 kernel in DD-WRT.
raydicks wrote:
I also have the following switches:
Netgear Prosafe 24 port 10/100 Switch Model 23 (JFS524) less than a year old
1 Netgear Prosafe Plus GS108E V1 Firmware V 1.00.09 I’ve been using about a week
1 Netgear Prosafe G108NA upc# 606449025163 new in sealed box
1 Netgear GS608NA UPC# 606449035926 new is sealed box
I had really hoped to have 1 16-24 port smart switch as I thought it would do a better job of managing traffice If i'm right then please let me know what the best one to use would be,
If all of your switches are gigabit speeds, then it does not matter which one you use where. If any of them are *not* gigabit speeds, then you should sell it and get an inexpensive gigabit switch for extra connections (inexpensive can be found on www.newegg.com for $15 to $35, I have two that I use).
Your biggest limitation will be on making sure the networks for both of your routers does not "collide". By default, the 2wire router is set in the 192.168.1.x range. That is the same range as DD-WRT's default configuration. Change one or both. I configured my 2wire to be in the 172.16.x.x range and my E3000 is in the 10.x.x.x range. All "attack detection" settings need to be disabled on the 2wire router and your DD-WRT router needs to be added to the DMZ (to get a public IP). Once you have your 2wire router configured properly, you should never need to change them again (unless you screwed up something and cannot get decent connections, I did that and had to reset the 2wire router and start from scratch again). Once the DD-WRT gets a "public" IP, you can configure it to your hears content for your current setup.
Hopefully I have provided you with enough information to get things going. If you have further question, please feel free to ask. _________________ E3000 22200M KongVPN K26
WRT600n v1.1 refirb mega 18767 BS K24 NEWD2 [not used]
WRT54G v2 16214 BS K24 [access point]
Try Dropbox for syncing files - get 2.5gb online for free by signing up.
Read! Peacock thread
*PLEASE* upgrade PAST v24SP1 or no support.
Joined: 24 Feb 2009 Posts: 2026 Location: Sol System > Earth > USA > Arkansas
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 22:19 Post subject:
raydicks wrote:
this sounds GREAT, I'll change the IP address for both, and reboot. I take them both back to factory configuration and start over?
Always. At least for the 2wire. The DD-WRT router probably does not need to be reset unless you mis-configured something and changing settings does not fix it.
raydicks wrote:
also I tried to find the E3000 router and I haven't had much luck except Cisco refurbs that aren't written up very nicly.
Lots of ROM flash (minimum 32mb) and supports DD-WRT. There is nothing wrong with a refurbished router that comes from the manufacturer. My WRT600n was a "refurb" and it still works to this day. Additional benefit is that you get the router for a cheaper price.
raydicks wrote:
also as for switches, you feel what I have is good, is there any reason to go with the 116E or anything simular?
Thanks again
I am not directly familiar with your switches, but if they support your gigabit network, then yes they are good enough. If they are the older 10/100mb switches, then upgrade. I promise you will be happier if your entire network is of gigabit speed. Yes they will be "unmanaged" switches, but with your setup, you do not need managed switches. _________________ E3000 22200M KongVPN K26
WRT600n v1.1 refirb mega 18767 BS K24 NEWD2 [not used]
WRT54G v2 16214 BS K24 [access point]
Try Dropbox for syncing files - get 2.5gb online for free by signing up.
Read! Peacock thread
*PLEASE* upgrade PAST v24SP1 or no support.
Joined: 08 Nov 2007 Posts: 34 Location: North Metro Atlanta, GA
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:44 Post subject:
Ok, thanks for the good advice on the Router, and the switches'
I changed the IP address of both routers to follow the address range you used. and I rebooted them both.
I 'm having a strange issue though. it appears that when I'm using explorer on the net that after a few min it appears to lock up and I have to close it and start over, did I screw something up?
also I read what you said about smart switches, just for my own info when is a smart switch used?
) I just look at the E4200 wiki-page below to check for any potential new suggested build:
