Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 2:27 Post subject: Please help unbrick my E3000 and E2000
EDIT: Routers bricked because I was stupid enough to not flash an e2k-e3k build. I can't believe I forgot the golden rule for my routers. Now I'm working on unbricking them before cutting my loses and rebuying equipment.
Original post:
Quote:
I can't believe this actually happened.
My wireless was acting up on my E3000, so I decided instead of diagnosing the problem, I would flash a new firmware and hope it goes away. Grave mistake.
I don't see where I went wrong. 30/30/30 reset, then flashed dd-wrt.v24-16994_NEWD-2_K2.6_mini_usb.bin.
Then the router never finished the updating process, but all lights were functioning normally. That is, until you reset the device. I gave this router maybe 5 minutes before doing it. Now only the power light is blinking at me, just taunting me.
So, for some insane reason, I try this again. EXCEPT, with a different firmware and router this time around. I downloaded dd-wrt.v24-17084_NEWD-2_K2.6_mini.bin then flashed that to my E2000. Same exact thing happens, only slightly different. It starts off the same, and I even wait 30 minutes this time around. After resetting, all lights blink for a second when turned on (normal, but doesn't happen on the E3000) and now when I plug in an Ethernet cable into any plug, it lights up.
However, for the life of me.. I cannot ping into either of these routers. It's just not workin' on for me.
So, please, any insight on why this happened and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. If I have to JTAG, I'll build a JTAG. If it's serial, then I'll do serial. I just need some help here.
Thanks
Last edited by DaveTheRave on Mon May 30, 2011 9:10; edited 4 times in total
DON'T BRICK YOUR ROUTER! AFTER FLASHING WITH THE TRAILED BUILD, IF YOU THEN FLASH A BUILD THAT DOESN'T HAVE e2k-e3k in the NAME OF THE BUILD YOU ARE FLASHING YOU *WILL* BRICK YOUR e2000 ROUTER. ALSO reference this post regarding the newer NV60K.BINS FOR ALL E~ Series
That's on both the E2000 and E3000 pages. I believe you didn't flash the right build.
A serial cable will be cheapest and easiest. You need to clear the kernel (firmware) and nvram, then tftp stock firmware, then upgrade to a trailed build.
You need to be sure to always flash either a trailed build (router model at the end of the build name), an e2k-e3k build (older builds), or nv60k build (newer builds) which support the 60k nvram partition of those models to avoid bricking them. Some protection has been added in newer builds to prevent mistakenly flashing non 60k nvram builds to these models but it was just recently added and old builds still allow you to flash incorrect builds. _________________ Read the forum announcements thoroughly! Be cautious if you're inexperienced.
Available for paid consulting. (Don't PM about complicated setups otherwise)
Looking for bricks and spare routers to expand my collection. (not interested in G spec models)
How could I have forgotten the e2k-e3k requirement? How did this happen!
Both were already running DD-WRT v24 pre-SP2, so I should have already known this.. but in my haste I thought the only prerequisite was the K2.6 in the build. Stupid, stupid me.
Alright, serial it is, goddamn though.. I thought it was my computer that screwed up, but all along it was me. I'm even in Backtrack right now to see if Windows was the culprit.
I'm gonna start my research, but any helpful articles or wiki to point me in the right direction would be nice, and thanks again!
I have no experience with the E2000. _________________
Asus RT-AC66U DD-WRT v24-sp2 giga - build 25015 [Main]
Linksys E3000 DD-WRT v24-sp2 mega - build 15962 [Backup]
Linksys WRT600N v1.1 DD-WRT v24-sp2 (08/12/10) mega - build 14929 [Retired]
Linksys WRT54GS v4 DD-WRT v24-sp2 mini - build 15747 [Retired]
E3000 Info | WRT600N Info | Know-it-all thread
The E3000's bootloader doesn't seem to be functioning properly, and according to the peacock thread neither does the E2000 for it's timed out pings. Doesn't that mean serial won't work and JTAG is the only way of recovery? Is this right?
Last edited by DaveTheRave on Mon May 30, 2011 15:32; edited 1 time in total
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 7401 Location: Little Rock
Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 13:15 Post subject:
If from your posts all you did was flash a non e2k-e3k build than a serial should fix it with no probs, but now you are saying your bootloader (CFE) is fubar, which shouldn't have happened from flashing the wrong build. So is there something you did that you are not mentioning here?
Also AFAIK the E2000 has no jtag support, with the e3000, eko found a way to enable jtag for it, but i'm sure its a tricky process. So serial recovery with these is probably best. I would still try to recover these units via serial and see if it brings success, you'll never know till you try. _________________ Wireless N Config | Linking Routers | DD-WRT Wiki | DD-WRT Builds | Peacock - Broadcom FAQ
I know you said that you were unable to ping the e3000; however, were you trying this via a directly connected ethernet? Does that switchport light up? Even after a 30/30/30? I just want to make sure.
So is there something you did that you are not mentioning here?
I may have reset the E3000 a bit early since it was taking longer than usual. However, on the E2000 I let it "flash" for almost 30 minutes before resetting, thinking this was what I did wrong on the E3000. I can't believe how idiotic my mistake was. Besides that, nothing else.
Kamika007z wrote:
I know you said that you were unable to ping the e3000; however, were you trying this via a directly connected ethernet? Does that switchport light up? Even after a 30/30/30? I just want to make sure.
Yes, directly connected through Ethernet. Switchport does not light up, computer does not detect the connection, and I have tried the 30/30/30 numerous times. This scares me the most, as I think this router has the least likely hood to be recovered through serial.
I'll have more info tomorrow, as that's when I'm expecting the part to come.
Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 19:12 Post subject: Re: Status update
DaveTheRave wrote:
The E3000's bootloader doesn't seem to be functioning properly, and according to the peacock thread neither does the E2000 for it's timed out pings. Doesn't that mean serial won't work and JTAG is the only way of recovery? Is this right?
No, you can't know if the CFE is functional until you hook up the serial cable and check. The whole reason you need a serial cable at all is because you can't just erase the nvram with a hard reset and then tftp a proper build on, you need to erase both before the CFE will respond to pings and allow tftp. _________________ Read the forum announcements thoroughly! Be cautious if you're inexperienced.
Available for paid consulting. (Don't PM about complicated setups otherwise)
Looking for bricks and spare routers to expand my collection. (not interested in G spec models)
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 6:04 Post subject: Re: Status update
phuzi0n wrote:
No, you can't know if the CFE is functional until you hook up the serial cable and check.
Oh, okay. We'll see how that goes on Tuesday then. I guess I got a bit confused when reading the Peacock FAQ.
Here's how my train of thought went:
Quote:
If reply has TTL of 100, the bootloader (CFE) is responding.
Quote:
If you only get "request timeout" responses... this is not good (router might be bricked)
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A bricked router can be fixed with a jtag, if there is a jtag terminal in the router. Not all have them
I guess JTAG is just the preferred way to unbrick routers, since it's guaranteed(?) to work? In any case, forgive me for assuming. We'll find out for sure tomorrow.
Joined: 04 Jan 2007 Posts: 11564 Location: Wherever the wind blows- North America
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 18:01 Post subject:
I got a E3000 as a donated unit....bricked of course....I debricked it using serial once but went to update firmware and must have had the wrong build for it...I am unsure which one I flashed...but I got blinking power and no serial communications.
I tried to short those tiny JTAG lines where the R-packs were missing....well...lets just say...it will never run again. I'll blame it on my soldering skills, old eyes, hot iron...whatever...but bottom line is it won't be working again.
I may try working on it again someday...when time permits.
These units are quite trixy hardware wise to work on.
redhawk _________________ The only stupid question....is the unasked one.
These units are quite trixy hardware wise to work on.
That's basically how I feel right now. I'm having an extremely hard time getting my USB TTL adapter connected to my routers through the WAN port.
I'm trying to make a cable using a standard ethernet plug that will pop perfectly in place, but it's proving rather difficult. I'd rather solder some thin wires to the points and have them drape out of the port as a permanent access to the serial, but I can't get any of these open! Don't have the right tool. Isn't it a Security Torx screw?
In any case, I'm gonna try the ribbon cable idea instead of trying something new
Joined: 26 Jan 2008 Posts: 13049 Location: Behind The Reset Button
Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 16:11 Post subject:
DaveTheRave wrote:
redhawk0 wrote:
These units are quite trixy hardware wise to work on.
That's basically how I feel right now. I'm having an extremely hard time getting my USB TTL adapter connected to my routers through the WAN port.
I'm trying to make a cable using a standard ethernet plug that will pop perfectly in place, but it's proving rather difficult. I'd rather solder some thin wires to the points and have them drape out of the port as a permanent access to the serial, but I can't get any of these open! Don't have the right tool. Isn't it a Security Torx screw?
In any case, I'm gonna try the ribbon cable idea instead of trying something new
Just open the thing up and use the pads on the pcb. Not only are serial connections in the wan port, but also on the pcb.
DO NOT power up the router without 1st making sure you have no shorts (if using the wan port) from vcc to tx using an ohm meter. This is important as vcc is right next to tx (vcc, tx, rx, gnd). All it takes is one lose wire strand to touch the other.
If you touch vcc to tx and power up the router, you will damage the serial circuit. Then neither will work.. the wan serial connection or the pcb connection. short tx to rx, no damage. short rx to gnd, no damage, vcc to tx, you will fry the serial circuit.. No spark & smoke, just will no longer work. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]
