Yeah, I agree. Black heat sinks are also better at passively cooling than shiny ones because of "emissivity". Which is prolly why it was black to begin with. I used a heat sink from an old video card in my WRT54G v8. I hack-sawed it in quarters, then stuck it on the CPU with generic two part epoxy. It's plastic based epoxy, but I bet it conducts heat better than air. Definitely holds the heat sink on the CPU better than air. LOL
My Micromark drinks cooler has stopped its cooling effect. It's the type that has a fan on the back and a heat sink assembly, with a little printed circuit board, that provides the cooling effect. It used to get quite cold, and at one time there was even ice forming at the back on the inside, but now it has stopped and even gets warm.
I'm not positive as you didn't give exact information, but that sounds a lot like a "peltier cooler", sorta like this one, but bigger mabe?
You said it was forming ice, I think the chemistry of some peltier coolers (the "circuit board") is water sensitive. And if it got wet inside it's probably junk now. google "peltier cooler" and maybe get a new/better one that’s sealed properly. A 150+ watt unit would be bad ass, if you don't mind having to drink your beverage with a ice pick.
(P.S. It's not my problem, but this is sorta getting away from the original topic.)
For Broadcom CPU: use 2xB-type heat sinks
(total area = 24x22mm)
For Memory : use 2xC-type heat sinks
(total area = 22x8.2mm)
Pro: there'd a larger heat sink area for the CPU (24x22mm > Broadcom CPU surface area 15x15mm), which is very good
Con: there'd be slight gaps between the 2 heatsinks sitting side-by-side:
- along the edge next to each other
- the area @ the bottom where there's no coverage from the thermal tape
Would that be ok?
the 17 x 16's in your last post are the exact ones I use. The fit perfectly (processors) and the thermal tape they have on them works very well. No need to replace it. _________________ [Moderator Deleted]