How Stable is your Signal?

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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:45    Post subject: Reply with quote
overslacked wrote:
Just more input from the peanut gallery - I have 2 WRT310N units (AP, CB) and have always experienced random dropouts. I installed inSSIDer and I was getting a pretty choppy signal, so I ordered 2 of the 12V 5A power supplies that have been linked in this thread.

I've been using the new power supplies for 3 days now. Surprisingly, based on the other screenshots, my signal is still rather choppy regardless of tx power level, and neither my SnR nor signal quality are markedly improved. However - and this is really the only part I care about - I haven't had a single dropout since using the new power supplies.

BTW - the cure for the dropout I was experiencing was to login to the CB router, click the Wireless tab, and click Apply Settings, and the CB-AP link would be back up within 10 seconds. I've seen this "fix" mentioned in regards to WDS dropouts, so in case the extra details help, there they are.


Keep your router away from all power chords and away from other electronics equment.

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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 10:58    Post subject: Reply with quote
nitrocs wrote:
I'm interested to see how a Buf. WHR-HP-G54 responds to the power brick mod...any ideas on where to acquire a 5v 3A+ power supply?

I just got it today put dd-wrt.v24-12476_NEWD-2_std-nokaid on it AND did a Power Mod on it its working good and COOL.
"more on the power mod later" But its looken GOOD and thats with only 1 heatsink on the Cpu/Switch.
Wink
and i have not yet done a power supply upgrade "Yet" but im looking for a 5volt 4Amp one i need to see it i have one before i order one.
But YES IT IS STARVING for power badly !! at only 1.4amp
the factory power supply that comes with it well how do i put this.................................
IT SUX! Very Happy

8)

I found a
+5.17volt
2.5amp
What a BIG Help!
The "RX" went up and the "TX" went up.
Very Happy



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Last edited by Radioman193 on Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:11; edited 4 times in total
Radioman193
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 11:00    Post subject: Reply with quote
lastlaugh wrote:
good question about the HP-G54. I was wondering the same thing. But, I accidentally hooked up the power cord to my surfboard cable modem to a G125 and it smoked it....literally, so I am a bit leary on Buffalo units now.

Its fixable if you like to solder
but sorry to hear about your "fryed Buffalo" Crying or Very sad
"were you Hungry?" Razz


Cool

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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 9:36    Post subject: Reply with quote
with this thing on full power it Still is working Just SWEET noise is not a factor.

its ben on MAX power With power mods for OVER a day under a 95% load on Wifi and the Rf amp ic is Hardly LUKE warm 92f with the Fluke 63 Infrared Thermometer and 97.2f with my Extech Digital Mini MultiMeter.

as i see all over this Forum Everyone is paranoid of turning the power up on there routers / AP's .
That is just foolishness.
Everybody keeps saying the "radio chip" will get hot
That is BOGUS And Misinformation.
as Most people cant even get to the Rf Amp Ic as it is under a shield so thay toutch the Radio Host controller "Thinking thats the Radio amp" and Yes that ic is hot. but does not change temp with output power settings.

after yesrs of Operating wifi and moding the rf output for Full MAX power I have NEVER lost a wifi radio from doing that.

And for the people that will say you cant use full or MAX power Cause your "Noise" level will go up.
well there is alot fo Factors that will play into this.

Thay are :
1 How Clean is the power to the unit.
2 Other Electronics Verry close to the wifi radio.
3 the quality of the device its self.

Most All NO ALL transmitters transmitt "Noise"
at a fixed level relative to the total signal.
there is a distance between the Useable Signal level and the noise.

Just for an EXAMPLE
If you have a noise level of lets say 5%
and a useable signal of 10% "thats 5 over the noise"

And if you amplify the Rf that that radio is transmitting you will "amplify" its "Noise" TRUE
BUT the distance between your usable signal and noise
will Remain so it will now look like 20% usable signal and the Noise will be at 10%

thats why people say if you turn your power up you will get More noise well to them You Allways had the noise its just that the software you are or were useing could Not decect the noise at that low level
Hence to you it looked like you had No or Verry Little noise level.

And for the people that will say :
Why turn up your power cause it will NOT change you Recive "RX" .
True it will NOT cahnge the "RX" receive
BUT ......

Example :


wpc300n
Transmitted Power 802.11g: 12±1dBm (Typical)
Wireless-N: 10±1dBm (Typical)

Receive Sensitivity 54Mbps @ -70dBm (Typical)
Wireless-N @ -70dBm (Typical)


wpc600n

RF Pwr (EIRP) in dBm 802.11b: 17±0.5 dBm (Typical)
802.11g: 14±0.5 dBm (Typical)
802.11a: 12.5±0.5 dBm (Typical)
802.11n: 12.5±0.5 dBm @ 5GHz (Typical)
802.11n: 14±0.5 dBm @ 2.4GHz (Typical)

Receive Sensitivity in dBm 802.11b: -76 dBm @10% (Typical)
802.11g: -65 dBm @10% (Typical)
802.11a: -65 dBm @10% (Typical)
802.11n: -50 dBm @4% for 5GHz (Typical)
802.11n: -50 dBm @4% for 2.4GHz (Typical)


As you can see you have alot More receive sensitivity than transmitted power "STOCK" .

The average base Mark is :
−10 dBm =100 µW and is Typical bace received signal power (−10dBm) of wireless network

So if you have a receive sensitivity Better than -10dbm
Why not turn your power up as the Eg #2 will show the wireless signal levels as the reciver has better recive sensitivity the -dbm over the base mark of -10dbm


Eg#2
−70 dBm =100 pW Typical range (−10 to −80 dBm) of wireless (802.11x) received signal power over a network .

FACT: As you See here in the Examples you have WAY more recive sensitivity than you need.










FACT:
The ONLY IC in the Wifi part of your Router or AP that will get Hot is the Radio Host controller
and its temperature will NOT change with setting the radio output power.



Fact:
the Hottest Ic in a router is the Switch The greater the load on the switch the hotter it will get.
Eg. Big Long File transfers or under full Network loads.

MORE on this later
Cool

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Last edited by Radioman193 on Tue Jul 28, 2009 18:40; edited 1 time in total
Radioman193
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 13:24    Post subject: Reply with quote
As you can see here the RX And TX are equal or the same as one another.
and at MAX full power.
Cool



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KeithB
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 23:01    Post subject: Reply with quote
lastlaugh wrote:
good question about the HP-G54. I was wondering the same thing. But, I accidentally hooked up the power cord to my surfboard cable modem to a G125 and it smoked it....literally, so I am a bit leary on Buffalo units now.

If you're fortunate, it's simply a blown diode. Open the router case and look behind the power jack. Another user on this forum recently repaired his Buffalo by replacing the blown diode.

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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:01    Post subject: Reply with quote
The Mods are Complete and have passed all my tests.

and i replaced the 5volt 1.4amp power supply with a 5volt 2.5amp .
Cisco Systems power supply
Part # 34-0912-01 REV:A0

Now

the first thing we have is the Power mod.

we need to remove the board from the router
after this we look on the back side of the board up to the front you will find IC1 the regulator for the Rf amp that is set to run on +4.52 volts we want +5.04 volts the picture will show you what to do.

And for the people that think thave a bad Buffalo WHR-HP-G54 if it has Verry low power CHECK the fuse.

same for the people that think thay burnt there amp up CHECK YOUR fuse!
Its in the picture.

AFTER you put it back together
in your Browser go to
#1 192.168.1.1
#2 Login
#3 click on the Administration tab
#4 then click the Commands tab
#5 then in the Command Shell Box
#6 Enter this >> wl txpwr1 31
#7 then click Save Startup "you need to do this step cause if or when you reboot the router it will come back up with only 251mW'

#8 then at the top click the Management tab
#9 then At the bottom Click the Reboot Router Tab

after it reboots repete steps 1 and 2
then click on the Status tab at the top
then click the Wireless tab
you shuld see TX Power 1259 mW
close your browser


Enjoy the "toy"

Very Happy



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Last edited by Radioman193 on Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:29; edited 7 times in total
Radioman193
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:13    Post subject: Reply with quote
and dont think this will burn your router up IT WILL NOT!!!

you shuld use a heatsink ONLY 1 Will Ever be needed.
this is a Verry SIMPLE Router the Big IC in the center is a CPU/Switch and radio host controller in one package!

the Radio Ic Will Not get Mutch over 102f even in a hot room in the summer and same with the Rf amp Ic.





these other mods i did cause i DONT like the Look of the Buffalo its "nasty".
so what i did was built it into an old wrt300n v1.1 case
Now its a "Linksys AirLink-HP-G54" with Twin 7dbi antennas for Now.

this is what i had to do .
sorry the pictures are NOT the best.



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Last edited by Radioman193 on Mon Aug 03, 2009 7:47; edited 2 times in total
Radioman193
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:15    Post subject: Reply with quote
antennas and things


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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:18    Post subject: Reply with quote
some more


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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 10:21    Post subject: Reply with quote
some things i needed to do for adding the antennas


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Radioman193
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 12:54    Post subject: Reply with quote
Now its a
"LinkSys Air Station"

Laughing Laughing Laughing

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:19    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nice looking voltage mod ! I wonder how much it will actually take before it fries. I'm thinking to push th amp up to 6 or 6.5 to see how she holds up.

Have you seen the spec sheet on the amp ?
http://datasheet.abcelectronique.com/040/040-48958-AWL6153.pdf

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:50    Post subject: Reply with quote
I would be curious to know how the GUI is guessing at the TX power value.

http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1595&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75
u3gyxap wrote:
The Tx amp cannot be detected, because it is an external addition to the circuit and is not a PnP device, nor embedded in the radio, nor the CPU.
TX AMP IS ALWAYS ON.

The only change that takes place is this: The driver knows about Tx amp from the identification of the board (boardflags). But, it cannot control the amplifier itself. It can only control the output to the amp (preamplifying), which is just enough.
The output TO the Tx amplifier is the only change that takes place.

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nitrocs
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 3:30    Post subject: Reply with quote
Im confused...the OEM Buffalo power brick is listed as 5v 2.6A

Is this a different revision or am I missing something?
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