Help needed. cfe.bin for DIR-895L router

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blkt
DD-WRT Guru


Joined: 20 Jan 2019
Posts: 1805

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 22:59    Post subject: Reply with quote
If you have a soldering iron you can try to fix it (and verify the chip is legit, drivers installed) or...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBKCW3S

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124251758238

https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C3-Isolated-Featuring/dp/B07TS3GPQ1

https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C5-Converter-Support/dp/B07WX2DSVB
Sponsor
llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 23:15    Post subject: Reply with quote
blkt wrote:
If you have a soldering iron you can try to fix it (and verify the chip is legit, drivers installed) or...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBKCW3S

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124251758238

https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C3-Isolated-Featuring/dp/B07TS3GPQ1

https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-SH-U09C5-Converter-Support/dp/B07WX2DSVB


I live in Canada so ordering any of those will take a month lol. I will be stopping by a store tomorrow to see if they have it rather than wait on another shipment. If they don't then I will be ordering another one and hoping for the best.

I don't have a soldering iron and the boss at home doesn't want me spending a lot of money trying to fix the router Very Happy
blkt
DD-WRT Guru


Joined: 20 Jan 2019
Posts: 1805

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 23:20    Post subject: Reply with quote
Okay, look for FTDI or FT232TL 3.3V TTL. Another common chip is CP2102 from SiLabs.

Or, buy an R7800 and enjoy. Smile
llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 19:58    Post subject: Reply with quote
I got another cable. The router turns on with the serial connection in place but nothing shows up on the putty screen.I made sure to check all the setting including the suggestion to Enable VT100 line.

There is solid white power light on the router and nothing changes. Tried using the reset button it and nothing changes.
The soldering is intact inside the USB part.

Does anyone have any idea where I should go from here?
blkt
DD-WRT Guru


Joined: 20 Jan 2019
Posts: 1805

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 20:12    Post subject: Reply with quote
Which chip is the new cable? Did you install the correct driver?

Did you select the correct COM port and verify 115200/8/None/1/None in both the COM port's settings and PuTTY?
llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 20:25    Post subject: Reply with quote
blkt wrote:
Which chip is the new cable? Did you install the correct driver?

Did you select the correct COM port and verify 115200/8/None/1/None in both the COM port's settings and PuTTY?


Yes, to the questions on the second paragraph.

Regarding the chip, I assume it is a prolific (https://secure.sayal.com/STORE2/View_SHOP.php?SKU=243760). I installed the driver and it loads on windows without an issue.
llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 17:42    Post subject: Reply with quote
So I took the heatsink off and took a better picture of the serial connection. As you can see two don't have resisters. Does anyone think that is why I cannot see any info on the putty screen on boot up?

But how come I can still use a multimeter to find the Rx tx grn if the resisters are not there?



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IONK
DD-WRT User


Joined: 19 Aug 2011
Posts: 129

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 17:37    Post subject: Reply with quote
sorry I didn't see this topic earlier.
I do not own dir-895l but i have some experience working with serial port.
1) To figure out the Vcc, Tx, Rx, GND pin:
- Very frequently, most area of the top and bottom layer of the PCB are covered by the "ground plane". Any plated hole connected directly to this ground plane is GND. This can be confirmed using a multimeter. (also note that using USB shield to find ground can be tricky because sometimes there will be inductor/capacitor/choker between GND and USB shield)
- Usually, 3.3V track is thicker than Tx & Rx track
- Usually, Tx and Rx have a resistor in series (as a simple protection against shorts) - in this case all 3 lines have resistor in series so it's not very helpful.
But in this case, because there are series resistors, you can swap Tx Rx without worrying much about burning your router (or USB-RS232 ttl converter)

2) To check if the USB-RS232 TTL converter is working: do a simple loop test. use some wire or bent paper clip to short Tx and Rx pin of the USB-RS232 converter, then type something into the rs232 terminal (putty), you should see the echo.
Some cheapo-PL2303-clone needs a specific version of driver to work (i had some refused to work with the driver installed automatically by Windows 10)
Also, the pinout of the USB-RS232 converter is provided by the seller. there's no standard color code for RS232, different manufacturers (and different batches) have different color codes. But please buy the converter with 3.3V TTL instead of 5V.
Just to remind, Tx from USB-RS232 is connected to Rx of router, and Rx of USB-RS232 is connected to Tx of router (but it doesn't matter much in this case since we dont know the pin out of the router yet)

Back to your question:

Quote:
So I took the heatsink off and took a better picture of the serial connection. As you can see two don't have resisters. Does anyone think that is why I cannot see any info on the putty screen on boot up?

But how come I can still use a multimeter to find the Rx tx grn if the resisters are not there?
R202 is missing, but it may not affect your Tx/Rx line, because it looks like a pull-up resistor. The thicker track with R187 is likely 3.3V.
EDIT:
- R196 is a pull-down resistor, that's why you measured 0V on pin 1.
- it's possible to have a stable connection without soldering the header pins: tilt all pins to one side and gently press at the side of the pins, the pressure will help all pins to make contact with the plated holes.



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llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2020 10:42    Post subject: Reply with quote
IONK wrote:
sorry I didn't see this topic earlier.
I do not own dir-895l but i have some experience working with serial port.
1) To figure out the Vcc, Tx, Rx, GND pin:
- Very frequently, most area of the top and bottom layer of the PCB are covered by the "ground plane". Any plated hole connected directly to this ground plane is GND. This can be confirmed using a multimeter. (also note that using USB shield to find ground can be tricky because sometimes there will be inductor/capacitor/choker between GND and USB shield)
- Usually, 3.3V track is thicker than Tx & Rx track
- Usually, Tx and Rx have a resistor in series (as a simple protection against shorts) - in this case all 3 lines have resistor in series so it's not very helpful.
But in this case, because there are series resistors, you can swap Tx Rx without worrying much about burning your router (or USB-RS232 ttl converter)

2) To check if the USB-RS232 TTL converter is working: do a simple loop test. use some wire or bent paper clip to short Tx and Rx pin of the USB-RS232 converter, then type something into the rs232 terminal (putty), you should see the echo.
Some cheapo-PL2303-clone needs a specific version of driver to work (i had some refused to work with the driver installed automatically by Windows 10)
Also, the pinout of the USB-RS232 converter is provided by the seller. there's no standard color code for RS232, different manufacturers (and different batches) have different color codes. But please buy the converter with 3.3V TTL instead of 5V.
Just to remind, Tx from USB-RS232 is connected to Rx of router, and Rx of USB-RS232 is connected to Tx of router (but it doesn't matter much in this case since we dont know the pin out of the router yet)

Back to your question:

Quote:
So I took the heatsink off and took a better picture of the serial connection. As you can see two don't have resisters. Does anyone think that is why I cannot see any info on the putty screen on boot up?

But how come I can still use a multimeter to find the Rx tx grn if the resisters are not there?
R202 is missing, but it may not affect your Tx/Rx line, because it looks like a pull-up resistor. The thicker track with R187 is likely 3.3V.
EDIT:
- R196 is a pull-down resistor, that's why you measured 0V on pin 1.
- it's possible to have a stable connection without soldering the header pins: tilt all pins to one side and gently press at the side of the pins, the pressure will help all pins to make contact with the plated holes.


I found someone friendly enough that lives in my town that soldered the pins in for me. Later on is when I found the missing capacitor.

Based on my multimeter readings and based on many different types of videos which show D-Link routers which are bricked being brought back, the order of the pins are Rx blank VCC Gnd Tx. I also tried bridging the pins on the missing capacitor but had no luck (did it with a screw driver). At this point I think I ran out of ideas as no matter what I do I am unable to start a putty window which does not only show a black screen and the router goes to a permanent white power light for the moment it is turned on.

As a last attempt I will just check to see if the USB TTL cable is working by doing the method you mentioned. Otherwise this router is gone Sad.
IONK
DD-WRT User


Joined: 19 Aug 2011
Posts: 129

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2020 13:21    Post subject: Reply with quote
llFawkes17ll wrote:
I found someone friendly enough that lives in my town that soldered the pins in for me. Later on is when I found the missing capacitor.

Based on my multimeter readings and based on many different types of videos which show D-Link routers which are bricked being brought back, the order of the pins are Rx blank VCC Gnd Tx. I also tried bridging the pins on the missing capacitor but had no luck (did it with a screw driver). At this point I think I ran out of ideas as no matter what I do I am unable to start a putty window which does not only show a black screen and the router goes to a permanent white power light for the moment it is turned on.

As a last attempt I will just check to see if the USB TTL cable is working by doing the method you mentioned. Otherwise this router is gone Sad.

- I forgot to mention that the missing R202 in your photo is probably intended (D-Link purposely not soldered the resistor) because the pads look clean (no sign of anything broken off). Also, R202 is a designator for a resistor, not capacitor (also, I don't suggest to brigde the pads, because your router Rx pin will be always 3.3V and you won't be able to send data to your router)
- If the pinout you found online is correct (Rx blank VCC Gnd Tx) then you can safely ignore the Rx pin of your router but still can see the output on your putty, because router's Rx is meant to be connected to the Tx pin of your USB-RS232 converter, and to receive data from your PC. The Tx pin of your router should be connected to Rx pin of your USB-RS232 converter, so that putty can receive data from your router.
llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2020 14:11    Post subject: Reply with quote
IONK wrote:
llFawkes17ll wrote:
I found someone friendly enough that lives in my town that soldered the pins in for me. Later on is when I found the missing capacitor.

Based on my multimeter readings and based on many different types of videos which show D-Link routers which are bricked being brought back, the order of the pins are Rx blank VCC Gnd Tx. I also tried bridging the pins on the missing capacitor but had no luck (did it with a screw driver). At this point I think I ran out of ideas as no matter what I do I am unable to start a putty window which does not only show a black screen and the router goes to a permanent white power light for the moment it is turned on.

As a last attempt I will just check to see if the USB TTL cable is working by doing the method you mentioned. Otherwise this router is gone Sad.

- I forgot to mention that the missing R202 in your photo is probably intended (D-Link purposely not soldered the resistor) because the pads look clean (no sign of anything broken off). Also, R202 is a designator for a resistor, not capacitor (also, I don't suggest to brigde the pads, because your router Rx pin will be always 3.3V and you won't be able to send data to your router)
- If the pinout you found online is correct (Rx blank VCC Gnd Tx) then you can safely ignore the Rx pin of your router but still can see the output on your putty, because router's Rx is meant to be connected to the Tx pin of your USB-RS232 converter, and to receive data from your PC. The Tx pin of your router should be connected to Rx pin of your USB-RS232 converter, so that putty can receive data from your router.


I did try using just the router TX and Ground pin connected but still didn't see any information on the putty window. Starting to think that the router is truly dead.
fizikz
DD-WRT User


Joined: 10 Nov 2016
Posts: 172

PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2020 5:38    Post subject: Reply with quote
llFawkes17ll wrote:
So I got the new USB to serial cable. However, the router refuses to turn on if the cable is plugged in to the serial port. The router turns on if the cable is not plugged in to the serial power. Any ideas?

Did you try letting the router start booting and plugging the serial USB later?

I have a similar issue with a R7000 and FTDI serial device (DSD Tech SH-U09C3). If the serial is powered, booting blocks indefinitely, but it boots fine without the serial.

Plugging the serial in a few seconds after booting has started works fine. Afterwards, issuing a reboot command works too and the router reboots without problems with the serial connected. No idea if any of this is typical or not, but just another idea to try.
llFawkes17ll
DD-WRT User


Joined: 24 Jul 2018
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2020 13:30    Post subject: Reply with quote
fizikz wrote:
llFawkes17ll wrote:
So I got the new USB to serial cable. However, the router refuses to turn on if the cable is plugged in to the serial port. The router turns on if the cable is not plugged in to the serial power. Any ideas?

Did you try letting the router start booting and plugging the serial USB later?

I have a similar issue with a R7000 and FTDI serial device (DSD Tech SH-U09C3). If the serial is powered, booting blocks indefinitely, but it boots fine without the serial.

Plugging the serial in a few seconds after booting has started works fine. Afterwards, issuing a reboot command works too and the router reboots without problems with the serial connected. No idea if any of this is typical or not, but just another idea to try.


I tried that as well. Tried different versions of it by only having either the tx, RX grn plugged in or different combinations with 2 of the 3 being plugged in. None of them gave me any response in the putty.

The usb to ttl pl2303 cable is working as I tried what was mentioned above and got the appropriate response.

Feeling that the router is truly dead 😞
deslatha
DD-WRT User


Joined: 12 Jul 2016
Posts: 190

PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 12:04    Post subject: Reply with quote
llFawkes17ll wrote:
Taking everything apart will be done once the new usb ttl cable comes in if that doesn't work.
I have been reading the thread about the 880L and came across the correct layout of that board according to multiple users. Do you think it's the same as the 895L?

Neozen wrote:
Hmm.. the pics were on Page 9, but they are gone now for some reason...

Anyway, the pin with the square (marked by arrow) is the Rx, (then space), then next pin is the 3.3v, then Gnd, then last is Tx.

Use only Rx, Gnd, and Tx ONLY!


https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=1049680&highlight=#1049680


The square sharpe (marked by arrow) usually is supply power 3.3v base on it separated from the rest of three. If you trace the line, it has a capacitor behind.

Next is may be Rx from router which received signal from UART device. you can monitor from start router, voltage of this line is 0v or 3.3v constant( not change) when router is starting.

Next is GND cause it no trace at all.

Last is Tx from router to UART device. When the router starts running , this line will fluctuate from 3.3v to up and down. It also tell you that CFE of router is ok. if not then CFE may be useless or your router bricked. you can not recovery from classic method.

It base on how router running.
there are a micro code inside if router cpu which help cpu control memory, bus, flash etc..which called prime bios of router.

secondly it is CFE or main bios of router which help control UART, Wireless IC, USB etc. It includes default NVRAM for 5G, 2G ... (no CFE then no UART communication).

Thirdly it is Firmware or extra bios+main OS of router which take advantage of full function of router. It includes update NVRAM or third party wish to change.

Last is user NVRAM which setting accord to your change. It also may be overridden by default NVRAM of CFE or Firmware NVRAM of the router.
deslatha
DD-WRT User


Joined: 12 Jul 2016
Posts: 190

PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2020 12:17    Post subject: Reply with quote
llFawkes17ll wrote:
fizikz wrote:
llFawkes17ll wrote:
So I got the new USB to serial cable. However, the router refuses to turn on if the cable is plugged in to the serial port. The router turns on if the cable is not plugged in to the serial power. Any ideas?

Did you try letting the router start booting and plugging the serial USB later?

I have a similar issue with a R7000 and FTDI serial device (DSD Tech SH-U09C3). If the serial is powered, booting blocks indefinitely, but it boots fine without the serial.

Plugging the serial in a few seconds after booting has started works fine. Afterwards, issuing a reboot command works too and the router reboots without problems with the serial connected. No idea if any of this is typical or not, but just another idea to try.


I tried that as well. Tried different versions of it by only having either the tx, RX grn plugged in or different combinations with 2 of the 3 being plugged in. None of them gave me any response in the putty.

The usb to ttl pl2303 cable is working as I tried what was mentioned above and got the appropriate response.

Feeling that the router is truly dead 😞


According to https://www.macronix.com/en-us/products/NOR-Flash/Serial-NOR-Flash/Pages/default.aspx#2.5-3V


There no clip 16 pin out to unbricked "on board" by use extend devices. Only for 8 pin clip available.

It required hot air soldering and a programer that able to read and write 32mb. Most programer only can read and write up to 16 mb. Sometime it cost more than router itself. Good luck.
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