Regarding the R7800 hardware wise, it has somewhat better radio's (4 stream), it has a far better CPU. it is already here for some years and has no apparent long-term problems (the same holds true for the R6400v2 and R7000) granted there are even faster routers but they cost twice as much so for the price you got excellent hardware.
Software wise the wireless drivers are open source and this router is used a lot by the community (as are the R6400v2 and R7000).
But more important this router is not only very well supported by DDWRT but also by OpenWRT (but openWRT is modular and has a steep learning curve, it is more for the tech savvy part of the community)
Regarding the install of the first .chk file form the guide:
Quote:
3. Get DDWRT file. For a first flash coming from stock you need a file ending with .chk. Subsequent flashing can be done with files ending on .bin.
For the R6400 v2 with boardid of U12H332T20_NETGEAR use the factory-to-ddwrt.chk from the netgear-r6400v2 directory.
For the R6400 v2 with boardid of U12H332T30_NETGEAR use the factory-to-ddwrt.chk from the netgear-r6400v2otp directory.
For the R6700v3 with boardid of U12H332T77_NETGEAR use the factory-to-ddwrt.chk from the netgear-r6700v3 directory.
Although you should be able to start with the latest build, build number 41328 is certain to flash so consider starting with this build for a first flash : ftp://ftp.dd-wrt.com/betas/2019/10-15-2019-r41328/
Very important after you upgraded do the following from the Command Line (telnet/putty):
Code:
nvram erase && reboot
Upgrading with Chrome is often troublesome, Firefox works most of the time, I use good old Internet Explorer.
Wondering if I need to get a bin install on there first. With that in mind, on your link for the "certain to flash" build, I actually see 2 in there. 6400v2 and 6400v2opt. Which do I want?
what is the complete telnet command line to erase after flashing?
Update: I finally got the darn thing back to stock. I just tried a browser I hadn't yet used and it finally decided to work. But then I couldn't get into the routers admin page until I did a 30/30/30 reset.
Joined: 08 May 2018 Posts: 14210 Location: Texas, USA
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 2:20 Post subject:
All you should have had to do was push in and hold the reset until a light went amber and flashed if it's like the R7000. Which bin files were you trying to flash after the initial .chk file? It shouldn't have been that difficult to upgrade. Unless you chose a build before full support was added or somehow got unlucky, I don't know what you did wrong. _________________ "Life is but a fleeting moment, a vapor that vanishes quickly; All is vanity"
Contribute To DD-WRT Pogo - A minimal level of ability is expected and needed... DD-WRT Releases 2023 (PolitePol)
DD-WRT Releases 2023 (RSS Everything)
----------------------
Linux User #377467 counter.li.org / linuxcounter.net
Joined: 18 Mar 2014 Posts: 12877 Location: Netherlands
Posted: Sat Nov 30, 2019 7:37 Post subject:
I agree with @kp69, only thing I can think of is the browser problem, this is just like the R7000 a very easy router to upgrade and maintain.
If things fail, there is always NMRP flash a utility to flash a refusing router which is documented in the unbricking guide in the second post of the Install thread and if it is bricked, serial recovery.
Like I wrote, I use Internet Explorer if I have trouble and I know from @kp69 that Firefox ESR is also a very good candidate.
Hey all. Since my last post I have gotten everything up and running. I was able to get a bin firmware installed by using the one egc recommended. Where do I go from here? Unless something isn't working, is there a reason to try another build? For my needs, everything seems to be working ok.
I do have a question regarding TX power. On my TP_Link C1200, the default was "High" and that worked for our townhouse. The furthest the router needs to go is down a floor and across the house about 40 feet. Does anyone know what a safe "High" TX power is?
(Right now I have 5ghz at 100mW and 2.4 at 110mw.)
Joined: 16 Nov 2015 Posts: 6435 Location: UK, London, just across the river..
Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 22:58 Post subject:
what ever value you add in TX power settings over the default max possible value (30dBm), it will default to its max value according to country domain selected...you wont burn it....
if you need a good range use country domain Canada and
channel 1, 6, 11 for 2,4ghz.. im not a 5Ghz user so i cannot recommend a best settings...
just do not use auto channel and mixed mode use either NG mixed for 2,4Ghz or AC/N mixed for 5Ghz ...
also use Shrot GI, and Short preamble too... _________________ Atheros
TP-Link WR740Nv1 ---DD-WRT 55630 WAP
TP-Link WR1043NDv2 -DD-WRT 55723 Gateway/DoT,Forced DNS,Ad-Block,Firewall,x4VLAN,VPN
TP-Link WR1043NDv2 -Gargoyle OS 1.15.x AP,DNS,QoS,Quotas
Qualcomm-Atheros
Netgear XR500 --DD-WRT 55779 Gateway/DoH,Forced DNS,AP Isolation,4VLAN,Ad-Block,Firewall,Vanilla
Netgear R7800 --DD-WRT 55779 Gateway/DoT,AD-Block,Forced DNS,AP&Net Isolation,x3VLAN,Firewall,Vanilla
Netgear R9000 --DD-WRT 55779 Gateway/DoT,AD-Block,AP Isolation,Firewall,Forced DNS,x2VLAN,Vanilla
Broadcom
Netgear R7000 --DD-WRT 55460 Gateway/SmartDNS/DoH,AD-Block,Firewall,Forced DNS,x3VLAN,VPN
NOT USING 5Ghz ANYWHERE
------------------------------------------------------
Stubby DNS over TLS I DNSCrypt v2 by mac913
Last edited by Alozaros on Mon Dec 02, 2019 21:55; edited 1 time in total
what ever number you add over the default max value, it will default to its max value...you wont burn it..
if you need a good range use country domain Canada and
channel 1, 6, 11 for 2,4ghz.. im not a 5Ghz user so i cannot recommend a best settings...
just do not use auto channel and mixed ...
Not sure I follow. If I change the TX power to manual it gives me a huge range of 1-1000. So 1000 is ok to use? I must be misunderstanding. At the 100 I have it set at now, it'a like 90% good enough to reach my whole house. I don't know what going from 100 to 1000 would do!
I definitely don't have my channels on Auto, but I do have Wireless Network Mode to Mixed. What should that be on instead?
This is probably a dumb question but I'm new so hopefully I get a pass. Is there an easy way to know what chipset a router has? I mean I only know my r6400 is a broadcomm from this forum, otherwise I wouldn't have a clue.
Joined: 08 May 2018 Posts: 14210 Location: Texas, USA
Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 0:21 Post subject:
Adamator wrote:
This is probably a dumb question but I'm new so hopefully I get a pass. Is there an easy way to know what chipset a router has? I mean I only know my r6400 is a broadcomm from this forum, otherwise I wouldn't have a clue.
Well, since WikiDevi went South and is being archived, we have to rely on any device wikis on the DD-WRT website, TechInfoDepot, and/or OpenWRT website.
Joined: 18 Mar 2014 Posts: 12877 Location: Netherlands
Posted: Tue Dec 03, 2019 6:46 Post subject:
Adamator wrote:
This is probably a dumb question but I'm new so hopefully I get a pass. Is there an easy way to know what chipset a router has? I mean I only know my r6400 is a broadcomm from this forum, otherwise I wouldn't have a clue.
See point 2
Below some pointers which might help to get the best out of DDWRT and out of the forum:
1. Research your router, start with the supported devices wiki:
https://wiki.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices .
2. In the supported devices wiki you can see if your router is supported and what architecture your router has and if you are lucky also an install guide/wiki.
3. Post in the right forum, from the former step you can see if your router is Broadcom, Qualcomm/Atheros, Marvell or other, use that forum to post router specific questions, for networking questions post in the Advanced Networking forum and for other things in the General Questions forum.
4. When posting always state router model, build number and when applicable the Kernel version.
Describe your problem and how you think it can be solved.
Give as much detail as you can also provide your network setup if applicable.
For your Network setup, state what wiki you have used: https://wiki.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linking_Routers
5. When posting pictures make sure the maximum width is not more than 600 pixels.
6. Do not hijack a thread, meaning do not post your own problem in someone else's thread. Just start your own thread.
7. If your post is answered and your problem solved, mark your thread with [SOLVED] (the header of your first post).
8. Do NOT use the router database, builds can be found at:
https://dd-wrt.com/support/other-downloads/?path=betas%2F2019%2F
All builds are beta including those from the router database.
9. Before uploading a new build to your router, research the build by looking in the build threads.
This is an example of a build thread for build 41328 for Broadcom routers:
https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=321699&highlight=41328
Search build threads with the search function and search on build number.
10. Use the build threads from the former step to report success or problems.
11. For older Broadcom routers (Linksys WRT54 and E series) read the peacock thread although some of it is outdated: https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=51486
Builds can be found in the Broadcom directory for Linux kernel 2.4, in Broadcom_K26 for Linux K2.6 and in Broadcom_K3X for Linux K3.X.
12. If you are sure you have discovered a bug, after asking and querying the forum, you can report a real bug in the bug tracker: https://svn.dd-wrt.com/
This is also the place where the commits/changes to the source are administrated.
13. Recommended reading:
https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=54845 https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=54959
14. If you are happy with DDWRT and want it to live on then donate:
https://dd-wrt.com/donations/ _________________ Routers:Netgear R7000, R6400v1, R6400v2, EA6900 (XvortexCFE), E2000, E1200v1, WRT54GS v1.
Install guide R6400v2, R6700v3,XR300:https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=316399 Install guide R7800/XR500:https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=320614 Forum Guide Lines (important read):https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=324087
DD-WRT I guess requires YAMon - the ttraf daemon is... well, I keep it disabled; but FreshTomato has monitoring mechanisms included in the firmware. I was going to say, you really need to be sure as to what model TP-Link you have if you ever flashed custom firmware to it. The C1200 v2 is a MIPS, the Archer C5v2 is ARM. Supporting either would require some doing on any firmware project, neither is supported here or in FreshTomato. I personally have an R7000 I got for free to use as a development guinea pig for FreshTomato, and I've been running it the past few days in place of my DD-WRT E4200 to debug some things. I think you'll be pleased with either, but that's just my opinion.
Thanks for the reply but I'll be honest and say I didn't understand half of what you said. YAMon requires DD-wrt not the other way around and I don't know what ttraf daemon is.
My current an Archer C1200 v2.Forget the C5 part, I was wrong on that. I have never tried any custom firmware on it. I don't even know if it can do any custom firmware.
YAMon runs on several different firmware platforms - DD-WRT is far and away the most common (about 66%), OpenWrt/Lede/Turris is the next most popular option (about 25%), Tomato, generic Unix, etc. make up the rest of the YAMon install base.