These WRTs are hot tamales. Positive or negative air pressure debate aside, as long as you are getting the hot air up and out you should be good to go.
I am changing the retmal pads with 5-6W. And going to instal a fan. Can someone advise me what fan should I use to be in the case for 1900ACS and from where to get the power for this fan
But the problem with rebooting and so on is only the temperature... I was expecting more from linksys, my old archer C7 was cooler hahah
I specifically loaded the router, warmed it up for a while to post this picture:
I took a series of pictures to give you an idea of the result. I will add that the air temperature at the time of the test is about 28°C.
If anyone is interested in my experience, here are the details:
It took to buy three things for the incarnation:
1. Temperature controller - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000032667016.html
2. Speed regulator - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32919389140.html
3. Shockers - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32810469917.html
The speed controller was purchased as a backup option - if something suddenly goes wrong - you can hitch a simple two-wire fan at 12 volts. In my case, it just serves as a switch. The power is taken from the power connector (see photo below). I haven't found another suitable place; There's another voltage on the switch.
The cooler (3rd wired) was removed from the radiator of the processor used by the computer. The air flow is down to the router's radiator. The final view:
Another picture where everything is mounted:
4. Radiator (sort of like an old graphics card) size 60 x40 x15 mm. It was mounted on a thermal paste later for the following reasons: During testing, I noticed that the tin (under the radiator, which is also set to charge 1) is also heated. Apparently underneath it wi-fi processors. Since I took up part of the useful area for heat recoil, so I decided to compensate it. The radiator was randomly perfect for the size. Decide for yourself - you need it or not.
5. Self-cutters - press the cooler to shock absorbers (3).
6. The edge of the hole (see the same photo 2) to access the button (7) programming and settings the controller (1).
The following photo shows the regulator (2) placed in the case:
The capacitor on the board had to be cut with wires and put:
The following photo montage:
8. Wire with a thermopapar. It is laid under the radiator in the same way as the black line is drawn. Somewhere near the CPU.
9. Sticky two-sided thick tape. It has a board (1).
Joined: 04 Aug 2018 Posts: 1447 Location: Appalachian mountains, USA
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2020 22:57 Post subject:
Lovely project. But for us lazy people, a USB-powered AC Infinity fan either on top of the router or under it, in either case blowing upward, works great with this router. _________________ 2x Netgear XR500 and 3x Linksys WRT1900ACSv2 on 53544: VLANs, VAPs, NAS, station mode, OpenVPN client (AirVPN), wireguard server (AirVPN port forward) and clients (AzireVPN, AirVPN, private), 3 DNSCrypt providers via VPN.
