Replacement for E3000

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barryware
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 19:44    Post subject: Reply with quote
Dr_K wrote:
This may sound too simple..but..when was the last time, if ever have you blown the router out with compressed air?

I'm sure you are aware of how electronics like to draw/accumulate fine dust..another reason I don't like the idea of adding a fan to overcome a design oversight.

Maybe there is enough to extend the fields of sensitive electrical components closer to others or the venting holes then designed for.¯\_(ツ)_/¯

As far as the ground plane thing..though sounds plausible..
Most all wall warts are not grounded in addition to being non polarized. Leaving the router without any true/consistent earth ground..Not even getting into how a transformer/wall wart works...

Or..just maybe..it could be the negative aditude of the duster operator....while dusting your stuff Shocked


I have disassembled the router(s) (2 x e3000) and checked the caps visually and indeed.. I did blow my routers Smile ..

They were clean inside but I thought a good blow job would be in order.

The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.

As said before, I am not interested in changing caps. I can not buy one or two.. I need to buy 100 and I am not interested.

However.. If a static Zombie is the problem, I can deal with that.

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kernel-panic69
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 20:40    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
Whisky Tango Foxtrot (WTF) are you talking about..


Wal-Mart here has 7000Ps. Just an option. I haven't looked online or in store at any other local retail places. Yes, I'm one of those weirdos who actually doesn't have issue going and driving to the store, going inside, shopping.... pity the thought Rolling Eyes

I am actually considering grabbing one for giggles. Maybe to bump things in the central part of the house. Anything else supported by DD-WRT, I'd have to take my chances on Amazon or eBay or other online retailer, and the way things are sounding.... yeah...

And you didn't have to explain the phonetic alphabet... that's old hat. You could've even said William Tom Frank... Wink
barryware
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:09    Post subject: Reply with quote
kernel-panic69 wrote:
barryware wrote:
Whisky Tango Foxtrot (WTF) are you talking about..


Wal-Mart here has 7000Ps. Just an option. I haven't looked online or in store at any other local retail places. Yes, I'm one of those weirdos who actually doesn't have issue going and driving to the store, going inside, shopping.... pity the thought Rolling Eyes

I am actually considering grabbing one for giggles. Maybe to bump things in the central part of the house. Anything else supported by DD-WRT, I'd have to take my chances on Amazon or eBay or other online retailer, and the way things are sounding.... yeah...

And you didn't have to explain the phonetic alphabet... that's old hat. You could've even said William Tom Frank... Wink


Not interested in spending 170.00+ USD for a router that is only needed for the radio(s).

Thanks for the advice..

https://www.walmart.com/ip/NETGEAR-R7000-router-802-11a-b-g-n-ac-desktop/36125910

Maybe start a go fund me account for Barryware..

Thanks for the phonetic's lesson..

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Last edited by barryware on Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:13; edited 1 time in total
Malachi
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Joined: 17 Jul 2012
Posts: 7240
Location: Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:11    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
Dr_K wrote:
This may sound too simple..but..when was the last time, if ever have you blown the router out with compressed air?

I'm sure you are aware of how electronics like to draw/accumulate fine dust..another reason I don't like the idea of adding a fan to overcome a design oversight.

Maybe there is enough to extend the fields of sensitive electrical components closer to others or the venting holes then designed for.¯\_(ツ)_/¯

As far as the ground plane thing..though sounds plausible..
Most all wall warts are not grounded in addition to being non polarized. Leaving the router without any true/consistent earth ground..Not even getting into how a transformer/wall wart works...

Or..just maybe..it could be the negative aditude of the duster operator....while dusting your stuff Shocked


I have disassembled the router(s) (2 x e3000) and checked the caps visually and indeed.. I did blow my routers Smile ..

They were clean inside but I thought a good blow job would be in order.

The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.

As said before, I am not interested in changing caps. I can not buy one or two.. I need to buy 100 and I am not interested.

However.. If a static Zombie is the problem, I can deal with that.


A good blow job always seems to help for me. Too bad it didn’t for you Barry.

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barryware
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Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 13049
Location: Behind The Reset Button

PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:14    Post subject: Reply with quote
Malachi wrote:
barryware wrote:
Dr_K wrote:
This may sound too simple..but..when was the last time, if ever have you blown the router out with compressed air?

I'm sure you are aware of how electronics like to draw/accumulate fine dust..another reason I don't like the idea of adding a fan to overcome a design oversight.

Maybe there is enough to extend the fields of sensitive electrical components closer to others or the venting holes then designed for.¯\_(ツ)_/¯

As far as the ground plane thing..though sounds plausible..
Most all wall warts are not grounded in addition to being non polarized. Leaving the router without any true/consistent earth ground..Not even getting into how a transformer/wall wart works...

Or..just maybe..it could be the negative aditude of the duster operator....while dusting your stuff Shocked


I have disassembled the router(s) (2 x e3000) and checked the caps visually and indeed.. I did blow my routers Smile ..

They were clean inside but I thought a good blow job would be in order.

The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.

As said before, I am not interested in changing caps. I can not buy one or two.. I need to buy 100 and I am not interested.

However.. If a static Zombie is the problem, I can deal with that.


A good blow job always seems to help for me. Too bad it didn’t for you Barry.


Smile

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Malachi
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Joined: 17 Jul 2012
Posts: 7240
Location: Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:15    Post subject: Reply with quote
Why give up on the r6300v2? Plenty of them on eBay.
A good option is also the rt-ac66. Used ones that is.

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barryware
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:33    Post subject: Reply with quote
Malachi wrote:
Why give up on the r6300v2? Plenty of them on eBay.
A good option is also the rt-ac66. Used ones that is.


Thanks Malachi..

I got it.. A few posts ago I posted about what I suspect the problem may be with one of the E3000's

Last year about this time, I had two take a yit.

I putzed with them but they were both goners.

Now the problem is resurfacing. But only on one.

Thinking it is the age of the router(s) (bad caps), I just assume the other is not far behind.

However, with the zombie duster scenario.. It is possible I could be wrong this time around.

FYI.. Once I thought I was wrong.. Turned out I was mistaken.

Jokes aside.. I am not interested in spending a bunch of money for AP and client bridge capable routers.

If I needed a new main router / gateway / dhcp server that needed all the fancy bells and whistles that my current main router does (with dd-wrt), that would be a different story.

I'm still up for the Go Fund Me account for Barryware.. Smile

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Malachi
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Joined: 17 Jul 2012
Posts: 7240
Location: Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 21:41    Post subject: Reply with quote
I just looked on eBay. $28.60 for an rt-ac66w. Accepts offers so you might get it for less.
We both know what a pia the e3000 is if you have to jtag it, even serial can be a pain.
I’ve had a few that I couldn’t stop the cfe.
The ASUS are easy to unbrick if needed.

Also there is an r6300v2 for $28.

Have you checked on offerup or letgo near you?

FYI, I used to be conceited but now I’m perfect.

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kernel-panic69
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Joined: 08 May 2018
Posts: 2599
Location: Texas, USA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 1:36    Post subject: Reply with quote
If the E2500 v3s were better supported by DD-WRT, it would be the same as the 7000P for me. I can get them all day long new for somewhere around $30 or so, if my memory isn't failing me with the other health issues going on. But anyhow, I understand the situation. Don't need yummeee uber powerful devices, just a good replacement. The supported Asus RTs Malachi suggested are good bang for the buck for what you'd need.

I'm just going to leave all the jokes alone.... haha
jwh7
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Joined: 25 Oct 2013
Posts: 2370
Location: Indy

PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 23:48    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.
That sounds like an inductor...? I've replaced bad caps on many older routers (older than E3000 though), and not one of them has a visible sign to indicate it (unlike bad PS/mobo/TV caps). In most cases an ESR meter can test them in-circuit. Smile I could send you a few 300uF caps if you want (since you're DD Hall Of Fame Razz ), unless you have spares already...I use then to replace all 100-300uF voltage regulator I/O caps.
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# NAT/SFE/CTF: limited speed w/ DD # Repeater issues # DD-WRT info: FAQ, Builds, Types, Modes, Changes, Demo #
x64 OPNsense 19.7.7|FT2019.3: EA6900v1.1@1GHz, F7D8302|DD 41596: WNDR4500v2, WNDR4000@533, R6300v1,
E2500, E1500@353, WRT54*@250: GLv1.1 nsg, GSv6 µ, RT-N66U@663
|OEM: WGR614v10@400 -> WNR1000v3 mod
barryware
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Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 13049
Location: Behind The Reset Button

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 0:14    Post subject: Reply with quote
jwh7 wrote:
barryware wrote:
The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.
That sounds like an inductor...? I've replaced bad caps on many older routers (older than E3000 though), and not one of them has a visible sign to indicate it (unlike bad PS/mobo/TV caps). In most cases an ESR meter can test them in-circuit. Smile I could send you a few 300uF caps if you want (since you're DD Hall Of Fame Razz ), unless you have spares already...I use then to replace all 100-300uF voltage regulator I/O caps.


I have all kinds of caps except for the one(s) in question.. The one(s) in question are large in diameter (maybe 3/4" ~ 7/8") and short.. Maybe 1/2" ~ 5/8"..

That said, the full value of the cap can not be read from the shrink tubing ~ vinyl covering because of its "shortness". More than 1/2 the printed value is not there.

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redhawk0
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 11:03    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
jwh7 wrote:
barryware wrote:
The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.
That sounds like an inductor...? I've replaced bad caps on many older routers (older than E3000 though), and not one of them has a visible sign to indicate it (unlike bad PS/mobo/TV caps). In most cases an ESR meter can test them in-circuit. Smile I could send you a few 300uF caps if you want (since you're DD Hall Of Fame Razz ), unless you have spares already...I use then to replace all 100-300uF voltage regulator I/O caps.


I have all kinds of caps except for the one(s) in question.. The one(s) in question are large in diameter (maybe 3/4" ~ 7/8") and short.. Maybe 1/2" ~ 5/8"..

That said, the full value of the cap can not be read from the shrink tubing ~ vinyl covering because of its "shortness". More than 1/2 the printed value is not there.


Send me a picture of the caps in question...I have one working E3000 and maybe a few that croaked laying around. I might be able to read the value of the cap on one of them.

As to what's been said before...I have several of the 6300v2 units...I got mine on ebay and I don't think I paid more than @23-25 a piece for them. They do run well and at 800MHz they outshine the E3000 by a long shot....it might be time to do some upgrades.

red

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barryware
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Joined: 26 Jan 2008
Posts: 13049
Location: Behind The Reset Button

PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 15:40    Post subject: Reply with quote
redhawk0 wrote:
barryware wrote:
jwh7 wrote:
barryware wrote:
The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.
That sounds like an inductor...? I've replaced bad caps on many older routers (older than E3000 though), and not one of them has a visible sign to indicate it (unlike bad PS/mobo/TV caps). In most cases an ESR meter can test them in-circuit. Smile I could send you a few 300uF caps if you want (since you're DD Hall Of Fame Razz ), unless you have spares already...I use then to replace all 100-300uF voltage regulator I/O caps.


I have all kinds of caps except for the one(s) in question.. The one(s) in question are large in diameter (maybe 3/4" ~ 7/8") and short.. Maybe 1/2" ~ 5/8"..

That said, the full value of the cap can not be read from the shrink tubing ~ vinyl covering because of its "shortness". More than 1/2 the printed value is not there.


Send me a picture of the caps in question...I have one working E3000 and maybe a few that croaked laying around. I might be able to read the value of the cap on one of them.

As to what's been said before...I have several of the 6300v2 units...I got mine on ebay and I don't think I paid more than @23-25 a piece for them. They do run well and at 800MHz they outshine the E3000 by a long shot....it might be time to do some upgrades.

red


Hey Red..

The cap in question is not hard to spot.. As said, it is large in diameter and short in height.

There is only one like this in an E3000 (610V2). When looking from the front, it is on the left side, close to the rear.. Near the power jack.

Because the cap is so short, the value in regard to mfd, pfd is cut off.

Even so.. if you want to check one of yours for fun..

I don't think I have any interest in replacing caps.

Because I would only need two of these (one'zies + shipping), it would prolly be better to just replace the router(s) in regard to cost of repair vs. a new (used) router.

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Cobra11Murderer
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Joined: 30 Nov 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 16:29    Post subject: My old e3000 Reply with quote
my e3000 is still kicking, been running 24/7 when I went to college I took it with me. I think though what helped it last this long was using a mini fan on it for years. I'm tempted to replace it with a tmobile asus (bought two of those already one for fam and one for my brothers place). Convert those to a asus stock version and your pretty much can do anything.

Last edited by Cobra11Murderer on Tue Mar 26, 2019 16:51; edited 1 time in total
Cobra11Murderer
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Joined: 30 Nov 2013
Posts: 23

PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2019 16:31    Post subject: Reply with quote
barryware wrote:
redhawk0 wrote:
barryware wrote:
jwh7 wrote:
barryware wrote:
The caps showed no signs of bulging or leaking.

To actually test a cap, you have to remove it (or at least one leg)..

There is a big electrolytic cap that I do not know the value of. It is wide and short and I can not tell by the shrink tubing on the cap what the value is.
That sounds like an inductor...? I've replaced bad caps on many older routers (older than E3000 though), and not one of them has a visible sign to indicate it (unlike bad PS/mobo/TV caps). In most cases an ESR meter can test them in-circuit. Smile I could send you a few 300uF caps if you want (since you're DD Hall Of Fame Razz ), unless you have spares already...I use then to replace all 100-300uF voltage regulator I/O caps.


I have all kinds of caps except for the one(s) in question.. The one(s) in question are large in diameter (maybe 3/4" ~ 7/8") and short.. Maybe 1/2" ~ 5/8"..

That said, the full value of the cap can not be read from the shrink tubing ~ vinyl covering because of its "shortness". More than 1/2 the printed value is not there.


Send me a picture of the caps in question...I have one working E3000 and maybe a few that croaked laying around. I might be able to read the value of the cap on one of them.

As to what's been said before...I have several of the 6300v2 units...I got mine on ebay and I don't think I paid more than @23-25 a piece for them. They do run well and at 800MHz they outshine the E3000 by a long shot....it might be time to do some upgrades.

red


Hey Red..

The cap in question is not hard to spot.. As said, it is large in diameter and short in height.

There is only one like this in an E3000 (610V2). When looking from the front, it is on the left side, close to the rear.. Near the power jack.

Because the cap is so short, the value in regard to mfd, pfd is cut off.

Even so.. if you want to check one of yours for fun..

I don't think I have any interest in replacing caps.

Because I would only need two of these (one'zies + shipping), it would prolly be better to just replace the router(s) in regard to cost of repair vs. a new (used) router.


just curious where would that cap be on a v1?
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