I bought the Trendnet TEW812DRUv2 to use as a general access point, create guest networks, and use QOS to limit bandwidth for the various services. The original build I used (23808), recommended by the ddwrt site, did not allow me to use QOS and brought internet connectivity to a halt. (could not access the gui or internet, very sporadic). I was able to switch this on and off, so I know it was QOS.
I upgraded to build 27858 and I cannot create a usable guest network using the very simple instructions provided on the wiki. Also, my computer cannot find and setup a chromecast which I also tried to resolve using the very simple instructions in the wiki.
Bottom Line: Can I do all of the things I want to do with the stock firmware? If so, why would I even put myself through all of this (tongue hanging out with a paperclip stuck in the reset hole for 90 seconds) every time I figure out the build I have installed doesn't do what I need it to. I just want to set it and forget it.
Honestly I just think the build version you are using is too new. New does NOT mean better. This router was first made in Jan. 2013 and therefore should not have any software (especially dd-wrt but except stock) that was produced after that date. In general I would AVOID any build higher than 24461 (and also DO NOT use 23804 because I am fairly sure that is why it got mine bricked). The one you used (23808) you said was from "the site". The "Database" is not the official list of recommended builds but rather is led by the community or something just like this forum. Better to reference this:
The wiki suggests build 23189 which should be stable and not have any issues with features (except for NAS). I was also thinking of trying 23838 to see if that was any more stable than the others I have tried when I get mine unbricked again. I was having issues with wifi connection drops on 24160 and even more on whatever version of dd-wrt that trendnet supplies on their site. _________________ I'm not a professional at all, I've just been reading a lot about things
I would think so, because the putty window would not open.
When I switch pins, it will show an error message window.
Did you find the serial pinout?
I think Malachi is correct. Try only switching TX and RX. Also have the router power itself instead of using the 3.3V pin if you are not already. On my TEW-812, I got the same thing along with nothing on screen whenever TX and RX were backwards. When I put them the right way I started to receive output. _________________ I'm not a professional at all, I've just been reading a lot about things
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:39 Post subject: Decompressing...error 1
so I guess I have bad news for my TEW-812DRU. Serial connection was successful, but the only thing I receive every time is this:
I have tried Cntl-C and spacebar as it powers on, but I am pretty sure this problem comes before I have a chance to interrupt boot.
Could this possibly be a hardware problem? That would be hard for me to believe though, because just a few weeks ago it was running very well. Can all the software become that corrupt after just a bad flash or corrupt nvram? Can a flash of DD-WRT or any amount of settings actually change the CFE of the router?
Its just broken I guess... _________________ I'm not a professional at all, I've just been reading a lot about things
Last edited by DatPratt on Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:44; edited 1 time in total
You are certain that you correctly attempted to connect to the default emergency webserver?
That unit is VERY hard to brick.
I would use WireShark to monitor the ethernet while connecting to it. And be sure you do a full reset-button reset.
I definitely will try WireShark...however I have not been able to make a direct LAN connection to the router at all, from any of the 4 LANs. Without that, I don't know how I would access the emergency webserver.
Also, sorry to say this but I was confident enough (and dumb enough) to disable the reset button because everything was originally running so well after the flash...
I can only imagine that this is now a hardware problem, but even then I cannot understand how.
What do you mean when you say "disabled the reset button"?
- It would be very difficult to accomplish this in firmware. AFAIK, the emergency server is hard-wired and cannot be disabled. That's the whole point.
- If you did it by snipping/slicing a hardware contact, all you need to do is reconnect it.
If you have truly permanently disabled the reset button, then I'm sorry but the answer is NOT that you have "bricked" your router. You have "broken" your router. The reset button is not an optional feature. You need the reset button for pretty much any form of recovery.
I want to go back to very basic basics for a moment. Hopefully you already know all of the following, but I just want to check to be sure. I say this not only for you but also for others who have chimed in here (some of whom in my opinion have given you poor or at least misleading advice.)
Most Basic Connection To A Router
First: find the default hard wired IP and MAC addresses of the router. For the 812DRU, the IP is 192.168.10.1 and the MAC address is listed on the bottom sticker. (Routers actually have several MAC addresses, one for each hard wired and wireless port, but the addresses only vary in the last one or two digits so you will know when you see the router MAC address in wireshark.)
Note: For "Most Basic" connection, don't even think about a URL like http://tew-812dru since that requires DNS to also be working.
Here's a sequence that covers the basics:
a) Disconnect all other devices from the router, and all other networks from your test/setup computer. Hopefully you have a standalone laptop or desktop to work with. To keep your test simple, turn off all other network-connected software for your testing. I.e., Shut down dropbox, IM, email, etc etc etc.
b) Hard wire your computer to a LAN (not WAN) port on the router with a known good ethernet cable (ideally 8 wire straight through, since this is a gigabit router; old ethernet should also work but I like to keep everything simple)
c) set your computer to a static IP address in the 192.168.10.* subnet, such as 192.168.10.2 and also set: mask to 255.255.255.0, DNS and gateway to 192.168.10.1 -- verify this by using "ipconfig /all" from the command prompt.
d) Open wireshark, monitor your hard wired ethernet connection.
e) open a web browser and point to http://192.168.10.1 (wireshark should show that this attempt is happening. it might also be showing packets from the router's IP and/or MAC address) Does this work? If so, you're already done.
f) turn off the router, hold in the paperclip reset button while turning it on, hold for 30 seconds and release. Wait for the router to boot... as much as 3-5 minutes although usually quicker.
What happens when you do this? What does wireshark show?
Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:52 Post subject: Important Notes On Trendnet Routers
A few other items have shown up here indicating that others are confused similar to how I was confused when I bought my 812DRU router. This post is to help clear up the confusion...
1) This router, like most recent Broadcom-based routers, requires 3.0 builds, not 2.4 or 2.6.
2) 30-30-30 reset instructions DO NOT APPLY. There's no such thing as a 30-30-30 reset on this router. If you turn on with the reset button held in for 30 seconds, you get the emergency web server at 192.168.10.1 (most of the time; if it doesn't work, retry a few times!)
3) Almost all of the "Peacock thread" instructions about firmware and trailed builds and choosing build sizes DO NOT APPLY.
- The ONLY builds that work on this router are specific for the router. You can either go to the FTP site (ftp://ftp.dd-wrt.com/betas/2016/ for 2016 builds) or the prettier web version (https://www.dd-wrt.com/site/support/other-downloads?path=betas%2F2016%2F ) -- in either case, choose a build date/rev, then find the folder for this router (there are folders BTW for the 811, 812, 818, 828 and more)... that is 100% of the firmware available to you. For these routers, that means exactly that build.
- It is NOT true that you should only choose "older" builds or builds from before the router was released. ALL newer builds are available. Of course, these are "beta" builds which is a nice reminder that there are bugs.
- I recommend either sticking with a "recommended" build, and/or look at the more recent "Test Build" posts to see if people are happy with one of the more recent builds. Also note the frequently updated list(s) of build change logs, which talk about bugs being fixed. If you are bothered by a problem in your DDWRT builds, look at the changelog... there's a good chance your bug has been addressed!
A few things before I try direct connection/emergency recover again with WireShark.
The only way I have "disabled" the reset button is through DD-WRT settings, which again I saw as something not permanent and not an issue since every flash was successful. However, now I can't help but ask if DD-WRT can actually have a great effect on the hardware programming (CFE). If a setting change like that truly rewrites the CFE data, then I guess I have indeed broken it myself.
I have been using only beta DD-WRT builds labeled 812DRU V2.
The only thing I have done hardware-wise is solder pins to the serial pinouts.
I am aware of the static IP method and have tried that...but not with WireShark and not in the exact way you describe
Honestly, I am also confused when you say it "requires 3.0 builds". Are you talking about the Linux Kernel? Because all builds I have been using had some version of linux 3.1...and this is since I have only been using DD-WRT versions V24-sp2 or in other words "version 2.4 service pack 2" which is the highest version of DD-WRT as far as I understand.
The most recent build it was running was 23804 which was "recommended" by the "router database", and I think that build is bad for this device anyway...since right now I have not many other ways of explaning the origin of the problem. _________________ I'm not a professional at all, I've just been reading a lot about things